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Do You Mountain Bike?

Speaking of air pressure Mike, your "just under 40psi" is getting close to the limit and may make blowouts more likely. I tend to run around 30psi. This is paraphrased from NoTubes.com...

WTB is supposedly working on tubeless versions of their tires as we speak (according to the WTB guy at the Sea Otter). I'm sure Mark Weir is running "special" tires that you and I can't get. I like some of their tires, but tend to run them with tubes for now.

Good to know Doug - thanks for pointing it out! That's what I get for failing to read the instructions thoroughly :)

I started running lower pressures in general to let the sidewall do more of the work - it seems to be working pretty well.

I think Mike is referring to pressures for Downieville where "I've heard" its super rocky and most people run near 50PSI there to keep from pinch flatting. IIRC

I actually ran em in the high 30s everywhere to prevent "burping" with the Stans. It's interesting to note that guys run similarly high pressures with Stans at Downieville though.
 
I'm running a 120 stem/flat bar/barends on my xc rig and really like the position for climbing and overall pedaling. Makes it feel just a little sketchy on downhills, but that's what I have my AM rig for anyway.

In '95, my hardtail WAS my "AM" rig (and my XC rig and my downhill rig and my...) :laughing So I figure my "full-suspension XC-specific" bike should be able to take all but the gnarliest stuff. :teeth Actually, I'll be swapping out my tires to the same ole' trusty Panaracer FireXCs that I've always run...

I'm old... so that hardtail back in the day? Well... still got it... still ride it - and it still rocks...

This summer is gonna be fantastic.
 
I think Mike is referring to pressures for Downieville where "I've heard" its super rocky and most people run near 50PSI there to keep from pinch flatting. IIRC

You are correct... many riders run tire pressure approaching 50psi at D'ville to prevent pinch flats with tubes. It's a very common occurrence there, which I can attest to. I'm typically running 45psi there with tubes, but you know how light I can be on a bike... :rofl

But I was referring to Mike's use of standard tires converted to tubeless. I was pointing out that It's not recommended to go much over 40psi with a Stan's conversion to standard tires. The beads were not designed to take the stress, even though some seem to handle it just fine. Just passing on the info... :cool
 
Just in case I haven't said it in a while, ... you guys all suck!!

Waaaaaaaaaaaa, ... Waaaaaaaaa :cry :cry :cry

I waaaaaaaaaaaaannnnnnaaaa rriiiiiiiiiiiiiiiidddddeeeee!!!:(


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Cody! I didn't return your call.

Sorry. I think I was in Tahoe that weekend. Call again or PM if you still need bike work.

My garage is always open to anyone who needs some work or a race prep.
 
found Mikey's old post of the fun stuff at China Camp

1. The balance beam. As you climb the front side, you'll proceed up a series of switchbacks. After leaving the firetrail, you'll hit a right hand switchback, a left hander, a right hander, and then a four way junction. In the past, I always made it a left hand switchback. Now, I follow the trail straight for 100 yards. Two trails lay straight ahead - the left hand fork is technical, while the right hand fork is a simple, gradual, fireroad climb. After 100 or so yards, make a left. This will lead you to a clearing with the balance beam section. Clean the balance beam then proceed down the short rutted chute before finishing your climb to the top of the front side.

The balance beam is about 1 mile into the ride.

2. Hitler. After the paved road grind to the top, most people take a breather. After reaching the top, look back in the direction you came. The paved road you ascended drops down to the right. A dirt fire road climbs for about 50 feet to the left. When you have caught your breath, climb the fire road. As it turns left and starts to drop, take the singletrack that branches off to the right.

This is Hitler.

It gets pretty technical on the way down. It starts off as narrow singletrack over roots and ruts, forcing you to hang way off to clear a fallen tree. 100 or so feet after the fallen tree, you'll find a steel, rutted, technical chute to the left. Take the chute down to the fire road. Cross the fire road and hit the singletrack.

This is JT Howell.

Follow the singletrack for a few miles, until it reaches the fire road. Make a left on the fire road, and climb it for about 1/4 of a mile. The fire road will switchback up and to the right, and there will be two metal signposts straight ahead in front of some singletrack. Climb the singletrack.

4. This is Corkus.

This goes on for maybe half a mile, spitting you out on the paved road on top of the mountain. If you can clean the last 50-100 feet of rutted, rocky, rooted trail, you are the man. Once you're at the top, the Ridge Fire Trail (dirt road) is on the other side. Instead, make a right and climb for about 50 yards. You will see singletrack on the left hand side. Take the singletrack.

4. This is the first chute of a section I like to call "Chutes and Ladder".

It used to be longer, until a tree fell into it. Now there's a detour, but it cuts the technical chute in half. The chute rejoins the fire trail. The fire trail will go straight for a couple hundred feet, then it will arc left and get steeper, with several deep ruts in the middle. The fireroad will then turn left again. At this second left, you'll see a rutted steep singletrack chute going straight ahead.

5. This is the second chute, and the ladder. If it looks too steep (my co-worker did a flip trying to drop it), you can follow the fire trail around it. If you're able to clean both the chute and the climb out (the ladder) - you are the man. I've done it once.

Make a right on the fire road. The fire road will fork in a couple hundred feet. Take the left fork.

It will wind down a ways. You will see singletrack coming in from the left, I think near a powerline tower.

Stay on the fireroad as it sweeps to the right.

Another couple hundred feet down the fireroad, you'll see singeltrack on the right. Take that singletrack.

You're now back on the "friendly frontside".

Note: A few sections of trail (Hitler, Corkus, Chutes and Ladder) aren't really legal, but they're a lot of fun. If you guys see rangers near the helipad / nike missile site at the top, you may want to bypass those sections.

1544170-cc-map.jpg

We did Hitler, JT Howell, and Corkus.

We'll have to ride Chutes and Ladder the next time we go there:)

Is that balance beam still there?
 
Don't tubeless rims have a sharper lip the helps grab the tires bead?
I also had a front blow out, so if WTB makes a tubeless Mutano/Weirwolf i'll get em. The weight difference would equall a tube anyway.
 
Don't tubeless rims have a sharper lip the helps grab the tires bead?
I also had a front blow out, so if WTB makes a tubeless Mutano/Weirwolf i'll get em. The weight difference would equall a tube anyway.

I don't know that I'd say they're "sharper", but definitely different. The inner rib is a bit taller and more pronounced, which makes setting the bead a bit more difficult but also holds the tire bead out toward the bead lock area more securely. Also, the bead lock area is shaped a bit differently to mate with the bead sealing surface. The final component of the system is that tubeless tires have a bead that's smooth and shaped specifically to fit in the bead lock.

The problem with using standard tires is that their bead is not necessarily shaped to fit a tubeless bead lock. Also, some of them are not smooth in that area (see a Nevegal's bead with ridges all around that makes sealing even more difficult).

Last year I had heard that Hutchinson was going to make their non-tubeless tires with "tubeless compatible" beads. This is the best of both worlds because you get a tire that's light like a standard tire, but seals well at the bead. This is a great idea and I hope other tires manufacturers follow suit. You can use sealant to seal the main tire casing, but the bead is a much tougher place to create a seal if the bead and bead lock areas don't match up well. Hope this helps. :cool
 
So I got this older XTR Derailuer(spelling..) and I've been noticing that my chain is banging around all the time no matter what gear I'm in. Going to the big ring helps but it still seems excessive. I noticed that the tension seems sloppy compared to my friends bike that has the same one but newer. Is there anything I can do about this other than buying a new one?

TIA


 
So I got this older XTR Derailuer(spelling..) and I've been noticing that my chain is banging around all the time no matter what gear I'm in. Going to the big ring helps but it still seems excessive. I noticed that the tension seems sloppy compared to my friends bike that has the same one but newer. Is there anything I can do about this other than buying a new one?

TIA
Try shortening the chain .... and/or going to a double. But you probably just need a new derailleur.
 
Have a nice season all.
I'm out!!
There will be no 2008 riding (or working for that matter) season for Joe.

MRI results reveal a left rotator cuff that has separated itself from the bone and recoiled back up into my shoulder.

Later........................


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Slick. Do you know what trails you rode? I heard there's still some snow at the top.[/QUOTE]

There are about 5 decent drifts across the trail (butchers ranch) at the very top. They are probably gone by now. Look back and link to my photos. It was super fun. Butchers ranch becomes 3rd divide then 1st divide to the end of the actual course. We also did second divide which splits off from 3rd. Much more challenging in an XC sorta way and scetchy but worth it. More so when they clean it up.
 
So I got this older XTR Derailuer(spelling..) and I've been noticing that my chain is banging around all the time no matter what gear I'm in. Going to the big ring helps but it still seems excessive. I noticed that the tension seems sloppy compared to my friends bike that has the same one but newer. Is there anything I can do about this other than buying a new one?

TIA




Chain needs to be shortened. Adjust length so the derailer arm is at 45 degree angle (bottom chain wheel pulled towards the front) when the chain is on the biggest rings front/back.
 
YOu mean like this?



Yup:thumbup If you got a lot of slack with it adjusted like that I'm not sure what the problem might be. I use a spring connected to my derailer cage to keep it from bouncing and I try to stay out of the smaller gears when I'm coasting over rough ground.
 
Joo need a new one... I know it shifts fine, so did mine when I had a mechanic tell me that.

Joe, that sounds ugly. Video games were my competitive outlet when I was lamed.
 
Yeah, I'm bummed about that I just put on some new XT shifters, this bike had been pretty abused before hand so now it seems like everything needs to be replaced.

Anyone have one for sale? :teeth
 
I got the new XT Shadow

Shipped for $66 total. It's spectacular with regard to chain retention/chain slap. My derailleur used to bounce around a bit and ghost shift when haulin ass down choppy trails, but the new one doesn't. You can have my old XT for free if the XTR is totally spent. It still has some life left in it, but not much.
 
Sounds good, does it shift very positive as well? Thats something that I really liked about the older XTR
 
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