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Do You Mountain Bike?

lulz, I'd take Mike and Harpo's advice and pass on that bike. You need a medium for sure, I looked at the specs on that bike and yes it is a bit bigger than an average small but likely too small for you.

Basically with a smaller bike you have to push your seat all the way back, and run a long stem, its do-able but not ideal, you want your seat somewhat centered over the seatpost and want a stem no longer than 100mm (even shorter IMO ) for all around trail riding. You'll hear some people say that a smaller bike is more flickable and controllable which has some truth to it but I ride a XL and have no problems "flicking" it around.

Its likely the dude selling the bike knew there is a much bigger market for a size Medium bike so he threw that tid-bit in there about being 5'9"" hopefully trying to get more potential buyers.
 
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Reading Comprehension;

The seller in the ad is 5'9", the guy here asking didn't say anything about his size.

Good point though, just how tall are you Malibu Adam?

From post 6665 @ http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5647159&postcount=6665

I am about 5'9" 200 lbs... trying to lose some weight though.. trying to get to about 185

I was going to offer him my Cannondale, but it's a small and wouldn't work too well for him. On the super-gnarly stuff like at Northstar, I feel comfortable on a smaller bike, as it is more nimble / flickable - sort of like using a dagger versus a sword. Pedaling in the cramped quarters of a smaller framed bike sucks.
 
I dunno, not that I've been to N* but I'd rather have a longer wheelbase on fast rough stuff. Going from my old XL stumpjumper to my Mojo I lost nearly an inch of wheelbase and definitely noticed a difference in stability. Going down fast loose trails I noticed a loss of stability for sure.

Now cutting in and out of trees through the woods, switchbacks, etc its nice having a bit shorter bike, but not an entire size of the bike.

Get the correct size bike for your body and then find a bike that has geometry numbers that match what kind of riding you want. Top Tube length, wheel base, etc

IMO going with a size smaller bike thinking its going to gain you something in the handling department is just silly. Finding a bike that fits you with the geometry you want, that's smart.
 
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IMO going with a size smaller bike thinking its going to gain you something in the handling department is just silly. Finding a bike that fits you with the geometry you want, that's smart.

Mostly true (ahchoo! I mean, Ahjoo!) This cold sucks

Being on the frame size cusp, makes it more doable for both sizes but maybe less ideally fit if you were say dead center of the medium or small spectrum. Ask me how I know, I'm 69" and I ride a small Intense, med Giant med Santa Cruz, and large Scott.

Things I know I can't make work well;
med Specialized, more for 5'10''-5'11''

Things that will work well
small Giant, the only reason I don't have one is because I have something similar(small XC bike)
small Iron Horse
small Turner
 
Mostly true (ahchoo! I mean, Ahjoo!) This cold sucks

Being on the frame size cusp, makes it more doable for both sizes but maybe less ideally fit if you were say dead center of the medium or small spectrum. Ask me how I know, I'm 69" and I ride a small Intense, med Giant med Santa Cruz, and large Scott.

Things I know I can't make work well;
med Specialized, more for 5'10''-5'11''

Things that will work well
small Giant, the only reason I don't have one is because I have something similar(small XC bike)
small Iron Horse
small Turner

Good stuff. I could technically ride some bikes in a size large since I too am on the cusp, but then I'd have to run the longer stem and seat cranked way back, which no longer makes your body positioned neutrally on the bike, bike is going to fit way more rear biased and you'll have a ghey long stem that sucks for descending. If you don't do these things you'll have a little clown bike that will be very uncomfortable to pedal for longer distances.

Personally I know I need a 620-630mm (24.5-25")Top Tube length to run the stem I want which is between 60-75mm long. To me that is a desirable fit, a longer top tube with a shorter stem. On my Mojo I can't run anything shorter than my 70mm because the TT isn't very long. An extra 10mm of top tube length and I'd be able to bump down to a 60mm stem which would be preferable.

In terms of wheel base I like something slightly neutral, since I ride a lot of varied terrain I prefer a wheel base not too long, not too short, in the vicinity of 1125 - 1140MM (44-45") Nomad XL's are super long wheelbase, which to me wouldn't be as beneficial dicing through tight single track.

Seat tube height usually isn't as important for me since I run a seat dropper but I wouldn't want one super short, too much seat post sticking out. I've noticed most of the Turner bikes have short seat post tubes, which exposes a lot of the seat post.

Even stuff like Head Tube height makes a difference as to what riser bars I can use, how many spacers under the stem, and rise of stem. If the bike has a super tall head tube, I know I have to run flat bars and possibly no rise to the stem, or spacers underneath. If its a short head tube I know I might need riser bars to avoid stacking a bunch of spacers under the stem, or maybe that frame just won't work for me, etc, etc.

If this is confusing to somebody just go to whatever bike you have/want's website and look at the geometry numbers in whatever size you're looking at and start comparing to other bikes. You can get an idea of how the bike is designed and how it might fit you. To me there are 3 distinct advantages with going with a larger frame; 1. Longer Top Tube meaning you can run a shorter stem and keep the same reach distance (fit), 2. longer wheelbase which will give you more stability on loose fast downhill, 3. proper cockipit space, allowing you to breathe better and be more comfortable climbing. Really though it all comes down to knowing your geometry.

This gets rid of all hearsay like "brand X bike is sized big" or "brand X fits me but brand Y doesn't" You just know your bike and what sizes suit you best. In fact some manufactures change the geometry of the bike year to year, so you can't just generalize because things change.
 
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I dunno, not that I've been to N* but I'd rather have a longer wheelbase on fast rough stuff. Going from my old XL stumpjumper to my Mojo I lost nearly an inch of wheelbase and definitely noticed a difference in stability. Going down fast loose trails I noticed a loss of stability for sure.

Good advice! :thumbup Wish I knew that before I went from a XL frame to a L and ended up in the emergency room after a fairly high speed get-off. I went with the theory of a smaller frame for single track and it bit me in the a$$ on a fire road. That crash "cured" me for any fast downhill stuff in goddam spandex... Get the right size bike, a "deal" on a bike that doesn't fit you is not a good deal at all!

I just sold my old full suspension Marin to a neighbor and I guess I'll stick to the beginner trails on my cross bike. Can I try to pull the "I'm old" card?? (maybe I can sneak it past Harpo without him busting me...) :laughing
 
Good stuff. I could technically ride some bikes in a size large since I too am on the cusp, but then I'd have to run the longer stem and seat cranked way back, which no longer makes your body positioned neutrally on the bike, bike is going to fit way more rear biased and you'll have a ghey long stem that sucks for descending. If you don't do these things you'll have a little clown bike that will be very uncomfortable to pedal for longer distances.

Personally I know I need a 620-630mm (24.5-25")Top Tube length to run the stem I want which is between 60-75mm long. To me that is a desirable fit, a longer top tube with a shorter stem. On my Mojo I can't run anything shorter than my 70mm because the TT isn't very long. An extra 10mm of top tube length and I'd be able to bump down to a 60mm stem which would be preferable.
Provided that you have a "one ride to do it all" I can see why you'd have to compromise different types of fitting

This gets rid of all hearsay like "brand X bike is sized big" or "brand X fits me but brand Y doesn't" You just know your bike and what sizes suit you best. In fact some manufactures change the geometry of the bike year to year, so you can't just generalize because things change.
It's fact, not hearsay, just like different brand shoes are sized differently. Most important is that's its subjective.

eg. if you are 5'9'' and have a 28'' inseam, a small frame might feel better. These frames are "off the shelf" so you can get pretty close, but unusual body types can get only so close.
 
Provided that you have a "one ride to do it all" I can see why you'd have to compromise different types of fitting


It's fact, not hearsay, just like different brand shoes are sized differently. Most important is that's its subjective.

eg. if you are 5'9'' and have a 28'' inseam, a small frame might feel better. These frames are "off the shelf" so you can get pretty close, but unusual body types can get only so close.

a 29" inseam at 5'9" probably means you have short legs and a long torso, no? I think a medium might be better with the longer top tube to stretch out that long torso, as long as you had enough room to lower the seat enough for those little legs.

When it comes to different brands of bikes, I've always heard many generalizations about brands and models, when really the geometry of them vary year to year. While somebody's 2006 Specialized Enduro might of felt big, its quite possible the 2010 is sized differently. Same with the Stumpjumpers, Turner 5 Spots, Giant Reigns, etc etc. I think its better to find a few bikes that you think you might like and then to narrow it down further look at the geometry numbers to see if they might fit you. Just saying that a bike runs big, so get the smaller one could be right, I think you're gambling the dice by not really figuring out why.

Probably not that feasbile for somebody buying their first full suspension bike, but if you've owned a few bikes already, I think learning to understand what all these numbers mean helps out getting a bike that fits and is setup correctly. Instead of just speaking on generalizations. I think a lot of people write off bikes not liking them, not really sure why and much of the time its because its not setup correctly.

I'm just sayin, educate yourself (not you directly), all of the manufacturers post the geometry of the bikes. They are a useful tool if you spend a lil time to understand the differences and what works for you.
 
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Sorry, but no amount of numbers on a geometry table can tell you what your body likes. Your "good fit" is good for what? Cody on a Mojo, there's balance in weight too.
 
Sorry, but no amount of numbers on a geometry table can tell you what your body likes. Your "good fit" is good for what? Cody on a Mojo, there's balance in weight too.

Its cool brah, I need a smiley right now for "flies over your head" :rolleyes

:twofinger
 
swampthings on... time to tear up the crack and mile! should be nice and slippery :)
 
went to carlmont instead today....tested out a new angle for the gopro.. i think i'm gonna have to do another test in pacifica!!

the crack/mile don't get that muddy cause they drain so well. more rocky than anything

new angle on the go pro test....cockcam? :rofl :

[youtube]TtBNMUx9zrY[/youtube]

cool pics taken when i lent the chest cam to my buddy:

felipe1.jpg


felipe2.jpg



snapshot from a vid of me startin to get some "style" hahah:

carlbull.jpg
 
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