-
There has been a recent cluster of spammers accessing BARFer accounts and posting spam. To safeguard your account, please consider changing your password. It would be even better to take the additional step of enabling 2 Factor Authentication (2FA) on your BARF account. Read more here.
Do You Road Bike?
- Thread starter bicyclemech1
- Start date
zanshin
Well-known member
I haven't been to the SJ location, but Summit (Pen Velo sponsors) folks @ Burlingame are serious about their road bikes and have been good to deal with.
http://www.summitbicycles.com/about/online-bookings-pg230.htm
I hope that vague datapoint is of some help at least. And here's a nice article on saddles, in the meantime:
https://www.cervelo.com/en/engineering-field-notes/the-four-and-a-half-rules-of-road-saddles
Thanks! Im actually thinking my bike might be too small for me?
My bike is a 52cm. Im 5'5" which makes sense but i have an inseam of 32.5inces which puts me in a whole different category of sizes starting at 54cm and up.
any advice from anyone?
My bike is a 52cm. Im 5'5" which makes sense but i have an inseam of 32.5inces which puts me in a whole different category of sizes starting at 54cm and up.
any advice from anyone?
firstbuell
GO! 04,16,23,31,64,69,95
- Joined
- Mar 2, 2004
- Location
- dem hills o'Redwood City
- Moto(s)
- 99 Buell M2 Cyclone;06 KTM 450 EXC-plated!;04 Specialized Stumpjumper Comp Disc;19 Wilier Cento1Hy
- Name
- Curt
the current month's "Cycle California" [or mebbe previous month] had a decent article about a SF fitter who uses RETUL method for fitting [also available at Calmar in SClara & Cognition in MVw]
he spoke about seeing fitter before bike's bought, if possible, bcz he can do a near-100% job using available models, once he knows what to seek
he spoke about seeing fitter before bike's bought, if possible, bcz he can do a near-100% job using available models, once he knows what to seek
zanshin
Well-known member
From what I gather, the semantics of frame size can be inconsistent across builders, and there's an additional dichotomy between old school geometries and modern compact / slanted top tube ones.
As a case in point, i'm riding a 60cm vintage steel frame (57cm top tube), and a nominally 56cm (size 'large') carbon comfort frame (57cm effective top tube). It seems that top tube / effective top tube is the most critical dimension, and that the traditional seat tube length metric, which gives rise to nominal frame size, is rather secondary.
Before you go for a full blown fitting, you may want to just demo a bunch of bikes at a good shop, and/or see if they can swap some longer and perhaps differently angled stems onto your bike. Useful data points, even if you turn right around and proceed with the pro fitting.
Other than nominal frame size, keep track of effective top tube length, stem length, and whether the seat post is straight or setback, and how far back the saddle is pushed on the rails. Best to not be maxed out in that regard.
If you can ride the smaller frame comfortably, it is perhaps not a bad thing - stiffness, weight, more seat post showing for better vibration absorption, etc. If not already fitted, perhaps a nice setback carbon post and a longer stem (and 25mm or larger tires) is all it would require to get you more stretched out and otherwise more comfortable?
Just a few very amateur musings...
As a case in point, i'm riding a 60cm vintage steel frame (57cm top tube), and a nominally 56cm (size 'large') carbon comfort frame (57cm effective top tube). It seems that top tube / effective top tube is the most critical dimension, and that the traditional seat tube length metric, which gives rise to nominal frame size, is rather secondary.
Before you go for a full blown fitting, you may want to just demo a bunch of bikes at a good shop, and/or see if they can swap some longer and perhaps differently angled stems onto your bike. Useful data points, even if you turn right around and proceed with the pro fitting.
Other than nominal frame size, keep track of effective top tube length, stem length, and whether the seat post is straight or setback, and how far back the saddle is pushed on the rails. Best to not be maxed out in that regard.
If you can ride the smaller frame comfortably, it is perhaps not a bad thing - stiffness, weight, more seat post showing for better vibration absorption, etc. If not already fitted, perhaps a nice setback carbon post and a longer stem (and 25mm or larger tires) is all it would require to get you more stretched out and otherwise more comfortable?
Just a few very amateur musings...
Thanks for the suggestions guys! I am going to book an appt at Calmar which is close to work.
The guy who does the fitting mentioned about different manufacturers and bikes and theres really no "you're this size" so i think we are going to try a combo of getting my bike basic fitted to me but also try out a universal bike to get a better idea of what works best for me since i have a somewhat short torso but long legs and go from there since I do want a new bike anyways.
The guy who does the fitting mentioned about different manufacturers and bikes and theres really no "you're this size" so i think we are going to try a combo of getting my bike basic fitted to me but also try out a universal bike to get a better idea of what works best for me since i have a somewhat short torso but long legs and go from there since I do want a new bike anyways.
firstbuell
GO! 04,16,23,31,64,69,95
- Joined
- Mar 2, 2004
- Location
- dem hills o'Redwood City
- Moto(s)
- 99 Buell M2 Cyclone;06 KTM 450 EXC-plated!;04 Specialized Stumpjumper Comp Disc;19 Wilier Cento1Hy
- Name
- Curt
NOTE: keep the fitting process separate from any new bike purchase
my amateur understanding is that most folks can be fitted to perhaps 90% of ideal on an existing bike that's close to the correct size, with new parts & repeated adjusting
doing it 'right' means being properly fitted beforehand & then looking for models whose dimensions closely match your personal numbers, before fine-tuning
this confidence also opens the door to acquiring the 'right' bike used & upgrading it......
so now, pull out a few hundreds & get going!
my amateur understanding is that most folks can be fitted to perhaps 90% of ideal on an existing bike that's close to the correct size, with new parts & repeated adjusting
doing it 'right' means being properly fitted beforehand & then looking for models whose dimensions closely match your personal numbers, before fine-tuning
this confidence also opens the door to acquiring the 'right' bike used & upgrading it......
so now, pull out a few hundreds & get going!
Yea, usually you get your fit numbers and just go bike shopping to see if the frame will fit those measurements comfortably also allowing room to adjust both ways.
You can feel comfortable on a bike but it doesn't necessarily mean it would fit you. Issues creep up when you do longer rides and climbs. I thought my bike fit until I recently took it out but my fingers got tingly after 30 miles or so. I also got fitted on another bike and my shoulder would get tense halfway in my ride.
You can feel comfortable on a bike but it doesn't necessarily mean it would fit you. Issues creep up when you do longer rides and climbs. I thought my bike fit until I recently took it out but my fingers got tingly after 30 miles or so. I also got fitted on another bike and my shoulder would get tense halfway in my ride.
Bike measurements is a cluster fuck. What being measure is some times different between different manufacturers. So pay careful attention when comparing brands.
Most important is your heal angle and your seat relationship to BB. The top tube can be compensated by stem, within reason.
How flexible are you, and how good is your core?
Longer head tube usually means more upright position.
Then there is handle bar width. I think general rule is about shoulder width.
For seat everyone's ass is different so try a few
I think with Calmar you can return it within 7 days if it's still like new.
Most important is your heal angle and your seat relationship to BB. The top tube can be compensated by stem, within reason.
How flexible are you, and how good is your core?
Longer head tube usually means more upright position.
Then there is handle bar width. I think general rule is about shoulder width.
For seat everyone's ass is different so try a few
I think with Calmar you can return it within 7 days if it's still like new.
Sidewalk
My bikes have pedals now
- Joined
- Jul 29, 2003
- Location
- Somewhere in SoCal
- Moto(s)
- Lots of bicycles. Sometimes a K3 GSXR1k or NSR50.
- Name
- Joshua
Then there are people like me.
Cheap bike? Lets ride!
115 miles, 9000' of climbing on a 30 year old bike that was given to me. Did I hurt at the end? Well, the last part of the climb was 2200' in 5 miles!
Cheap bike? Lets ride!
115 miles, 9000' of climbing on a 30 year old bike that was given to me. Did I hurt at the end? Well, the last part of the climb was 2200' in 5 miles!
Then there are people like me.
Cheap bike? Lets ride!
115 miles, 9000' of climbing on a 30 year old bike that was given to me. Did I hurt at the end? Well, the last part of the climb was 2200' in 5 miles!
Yes, but did you ride to South America, hoped up on Coco leafs, descended 75mph on special bicycle with special gears for uphill and down hill?
My biggest issue is constantly scooting my butt back on my seat and the outside of my foot having a sort of burning sensation like its being over worked. That could likely be due to poor peddling.
I want to see if my bike will work for me by doing a basic fitting, if it does work then a more extensive fitting is in order with buying any upgrades the bike will need. If the bike frame turns out to be too small im going to upgrade and get a bike that Calmar suggestions (within reason) I like biking i dont LOVE it. So Im willing to spend a max of 1200 on a new bike.
I want to see if my bike will work for me by doing a basic fitting, if it does work then a more extensive fitting is in order with buying any upgrades the bike will need. If the bike frame turns out to be too small im going to upgrade and get a bike that Calmar suggestions (within reason) I like biking i dont LOVE it. So Im willing to spend a max of 1200 on a new bike.
Last edited:
Sidewalk
My bikes have pedals now
- Joined
- Jul 29, 2003
- Location
- Somewhere in SoCal
- Moto(s)
- Lots of bicycles. Sometimes a K3 GSXR1k or NSR50.
- Name
- Joshua
Where you sit on the seat may be fit, it could be the saddle itself. Any decent bike shop will have demo saddles for you to test.
j5m
New member
Yeah, being pulled forward on the saddle, while you pedal, is likely a fit issue.
Assuming the saddle is level. I'd check that even before you go into the fitting.
Assuming the saddle is level. I'd check that even before you go into the fitting.
Last edited:
Sidewalk
My bikes have pedals now
- Joined
- Jul 29, 2003
- Location
- Somewhere in SoCal
- Moto(s)
- Lots of bicycles. Sometimes a K3 GSXR1k or NSR50.
- Name
- Joshua
Good saddle doesn't mean right for you.
My friend just bought a new Cannondale, came with a nice Fabric saddle. One of the first things he did was swap it out, with a different model Fabric.
The original Fabric is now on my bike, the same bike I rode for 8 hours on Saturday. What works for me doesn't work for him.
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2003
- Location
- West Sacramento, CA
- Moto(s)
- 2012 Street Triple r,
DRZ400SM, KTM 450SMR, YZ250F (still parting out),
- Name
- Steve
Sidewalk
My bikes have pedals now
- Joined
- Jul 29, 2003
- Location
- Somewhere in SoCal
- Moto(s)
- Lots of bicycles. Sometimes a K3 GSXR1k or NSR50.
- Name
- Joshua
Pretty active with the CAF.
http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2014/08/14/robin-williams-disabled-athletes-_n_5679298.html
I did some volunteer work with CAF when I lived in San Diego as a part of the Triathlon Club of San Diego, but never ran into him.