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Do You Road Bike?

That is a really good bike. it is a little on the stiff side if I remember and if so then it may be a little harsh on really long rides. I still think this is a great purchase these were really well liked in the race groups out there.

Thanks for the input guys. I've done some 50miles at a time on my '08 Fuji T.Pro so I'm not that worried about stiffness. $1220 was how much I was able to fanagle down to without any extras.
 
good now when u want to join me on some rides around the san mateo area just let me know.
 
The most important thing is the bike fitting you. A bike that's set up for a rider of the same height may not fit you any better than his shoes would.

Besides frame "size" (which is nominal- one makes's 54cm is not the same as another), there is length, and head tube height. You want a top tube length that gives you the correct reach without using a funny size stem (10-12 cm is normal for men, 8-10 for women). The head tube length is also important. Too short and you can't get the bars high enough without using more spacers than is safe. That's assuming there is steerer tube left to put them on... the excess is usually cut off.


As an example, I have three bikes, a 59cm, a 58 and a 56. They all fit within 5mm or so of being identical. The 59 has an old school short top tube, the 56 has a long TT for its size. On the 58 I have the stem pointed down and 5mm of spacer; on the 56 it's up and there's 2cm of spacer under it.

This bike is set up somewhat agressively- it looks like it's ridden by someone with long legs for their height, and who is flexible and experienced enough to handle the bars being a fair bit lower than the seat. There's no room to raise the bars- the stem is aleady pointing up and it looks like there's at least 2cm of spacer under it, and none on top. If you have shorter legs than the seller then you might be ok, since you'll have the seat lower. The TT may be too short for you then.


There was a recall on some of those cranks:
http://www.ritcheylogic.com/news_article.php?id=495

If the bottom bracket is a Dura-Ace, it's good quality but needs to be serviced and adjusted periodically or it'll die. If it's Ultegra you're cool; those are sealed and last forever. Ultegra Ocralink BBs are no longer made; 105 is as durable but heavier.
 
I guess I'm going to have to go try it out for size. Thanks for the knowledge bank = ). I was trying to find info. on those cranks.
 
Does anyone know of any shoes that can be used on a road and mountain bike? Something not so hardcore. I don't need $200 clip-ins, but I would be happy with something entry level.
I figure if they have a hybrid shoe for mtb/road then I can get away with saving some cash.
 
A decent pair of mtn bike shoes combined with Crank Brother pedals seems to work for a lot of people who go both ways. Not uncommon to see the CB pedals in road races, I've even seen them a couple time at the track.
 
I thought you weren't doing clipless? :)

I have a pair of Pearl Izumi SPD MTB shoes very similar to these that work fine for me onroad and for cyclocross.
 
I use these Specialized BG Somoma for comuteing because they have a sole that mostly hides the cleat, they are velcro and they are not to flashy.

6127-15_d.jpg
 
I have Crank Bros Eggbeaters on both my mtn bike and road bike. One pair has developed a "tick" sound that has to do with the eggbeater arms moving at a certain part of the crank revolution. I sent them in once to fix it but the noise came back
 
I thought you weren't doing clipless? :)

I have a pair of Pearl Izumi SPD MTB shoes very similar to these that work fine for me onroad and for cyclocross.

lol. I have been using those strap ones for now. Ive mostly biked in the past for travel, but I am starting to get more into the sport now. Im considering a ride from San Luis Obispo to Santa Barbara, I've been practicing, but shoes are gonna make it a whole lot easier.

I think im gonna do some mountain soon too, so I was trying to save cash on one pair of shoes. Eggbeaters sound cool, but id have to trade my Looks out to somebody. Or do the eggbeater and look have the same hole pattern?
 
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I'm using Shimano SPD cleat equipped shoes for both road and MTB right now. Cuz I'm cheap like that.
 
Eggbeater cleats (and all current MTB cleats) are two bolt. Look road cleats (and SPD-SL) are three bolt.


You can use SPD MTB pedals for both road and MTB.
 
Who rides Steel? I'm building an 853 Reynolds project... A tribute to the American bike company, if you will (no, not the "S" or "Big T")... :)

This will be funnn... :thumbup
 
Still new to road bicycling and I have a brakes question. When going down a long hill, i'll keep tapping on the brakes to keep speed steady (usually have to come to a stop at the very bottom of hill) and after a lil while the brakes start getting loud. After a minute or so, the noise is gone from braking (heat?). Is this something I should worry about?
 
Yea, some brakes start squealing when they get hot. You might try new pads. I use Shimano Dura-Ace pads but many people swear by Kool-stop salmon pads.

You will overheat the rims and brake pads less if you brake infrequently and hard vs often and lightly. Also the speed you are going at makes a difference- if you can go significantly faster than 20 mph, the air flow will keep the rim cooler (except when you brake hard for corners of course).
 
Still new to road bicycling and I have a brakes question. When going down a long hill, i'll keep tapping on the brakes to keep speed steady (usually have to come to a stop at the very bottom of hill) and after a lil while the brakes start getting loud. After a minute or so, the noise is gone from braking (heat?). Is this something I should worry about?

As mentioned above: Kool Stop Salmons - 'bout 20 bucks a set...

Also, you may have "build up" on the rim. Scuff the rim's brake surface with some fine sandpaper. But if you have lower-end brakes, changing to high quality pads are a must.

Or... do more climbs. I hear a little hill named Cantelow helps...
 
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