Do You Road Bike?

[UDRider]

Stripped the bike, mmyeah going to bring it to the shop for a headset work. I just don't have the necessary tools, and if the shops screw it up sometimes then my chances of getting it right are even worse. lol While I am at it should I replace the cables?

 

[theAmazingKickstand]

If youve got the cash, replace the cables and cable housing.
We cant tell if they NEED replacing but fresh cable/housing is always good.....if you're combfortable paying for that right now.

....housing is just as/if not more important for proper shifting as the cables.

 

[MrCrash]

After riding a Specialized Tarmac this past weekend, I'm curious - given the same weights, specs of components and frame rigidity, will a racing oriented road bike outclimb an endurance oriented bike? I plan to use the bike in triathlon and the occasional hill climb - the idea of crashing in a road race or a crit is a bit much.

I'm currently considering a Giant TCR Advanced (racing) or a Giant Defy Advanced (endurance). My lower back wasn't too happy after my ride on the Tarmac, although I could probably fix that with some spacers or a different stem.

Also, is it rare for people to change the ergos of their racing bikes, making them a little more liveable? I don't mind the twitchiness, but the riding position is a bit much.

 

[theAmazingKickstand]

After riding a Specialized Tarmac this past weekend, I'm curious - given the same weights, specs of components and frame rigidity, will a racing oriented road bike outclimb an endurance oriented bike? I plan to use the bike in triathlon and the occasional hill climb - the idea of crashing in a road race or a crit is a bit much.

I'm currently considering a Giant TCR Advanced (racing) or a Giant Defy Advanced (endurance). My lower back wasn't too happy after my ride on the Tarmac, although I could probably fix that with some spacers or a different stem.

Also, is it rare for people to change the ergos of their racing bikes, making them a little more liveable? I don't mind the twitchiness, but the riding position is a bit much.

First, pass on any Speialized product...Roubaix and Tarmac, theyre poor performers and not worth the $$$....they also sell their bikes on gorgeous yet stupid designs with pretty swaying tubes/paint. Also the TCR is dull and soft (sucks)....it climbs and sprints like an "endurance" bike.
Second, the Tarmac should not hurt because it's one of the msot luxurious frame geometries on the market, the bike you rode didnt fit you.

A "race" bike will climb and sprint MUCH better than a tarmac,synapse, izoard, etc. because of geometry and frame design.

The "race" bike will have much shorter chain stays and more acute seat stays. It will also have a stiffer bottom bracket and stiffer carbon design. The head tube angle will be steeper as well which will help with power transfer and handeling. Aggressive crit bikes should not hurt. I ride one of the most aggressive frames ever made for 100 miles at a time and im fine becuase my bike fits me perfectly.

Fit is UNBELIEVABlY important. That doesnt mean that to go fast you must be fully hunched over....that actually takes away from power....

FIT FIT FIT FIT FIT FIT is priority. A close second is frame. Third are wheels, Distant fourth is drivetrain.
Try a cannondale CAAD9 frame, SystemSix or any Cervelo immidietly after riding the bikes you mentioned. Try out of saddle sprint and hill climb.
The whole compact frame/ "endurance" models is a marketing scam and makes for a worse performing bike.

Notice how bikes have had the same brilliant frame geometries for the last 100 years and only in the last 8 years all these new angles/shapes came out.
Get an "American Classic" geometry bikes and get someone with a ton of expirience to fit you....those computers and lasers they have now to fit people is a bunch of marketing BS too.

I can jsut as easily drive a new porsche from here to LA as I could a Benz....The benz is a cushier but isnt really that much more comfy and the performance losses are unacceptible.

 

[nismodan]

Race vs. endurance/comfort/whatever bikes will also have different head tube lengths.
Usually race = shorter headtube = lower, more aero position.
Kind of negated if you add headset spacers to get a more upright position.

 

[half breed]

tue night ride ....

Thought I'd throw out a reminder for those who don't already know about the port of oakland tue night ride . This is not a beginner ride ...... that being said , all are welcome . The course is aprox. 2.5 mi ( completely lit ) around the port of oakland . Kind of half crit half circuit . Official start time is 7pm but I would recommend showing up by at least 6 to warm up . I usually get there at 5:45 .

This is a great way to get comfortable with pack skill's & drafting . If your new to this kind of riding your best bet is to stay toward the back . There will always be some splintering & you can merge into the slightly mellower group . If you have some fitness & experience the main field will be plenty challenging . Average speeds tend to be around 27-32 mph depending on the wind .

Tomorrow Ill be showing the ropes to a few newbs early so if your interested just come on down . There's plenty of parking at the far end of the course ( closest to the bay bridge ) .

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QGhYp1g05qc

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yKt1JGFLqJM

 

[Cycle61]

Have a Bianchi Axis CX bike, Mavic Ksyriums, and a few other goodies.

Used to ride ~300 miles a week, commuting and hills. Finished the Death Ride (all 5 passes) and a half-dozen other centuries back in '05 or so.

And then I quit.

Haven't been on the bike in years, except for puttering around trails with my daughters.

Time to start hitting it again. Picked up fresh tubes and tires today, gonna give it a clean and lube, and start riding to figure out what else is rusted and broken.

 

[MrCrash]

Thanks for the info, Kickstand. I appreciate it!

 

[machete]

some great info. I am in the market for a tri bike. or a great road bike that I can use on sprint tri's. any recommendations.

I used to ride an old Cad4 Cannondale, dura ace components, etc.....won't bore you guys with it all.

I want something in simliar comparison, or built to last. I'm 220lbs and 6.4"

problem I have is always going in to measure, since some of the frames are built as (large, medium, small) rather than in inches or cm.

I'll keep perusing, but if anyone has any info, it would be greatly appreciated.

otherwise, I'm also looking for a good and not so expensive crossbike.

I've run triathlons (small ones) using my mtn bike (as I had no other) but dammit, I get competitive and want to go way faster.

 

[machete]

half_breed, that sounds pretty kick ass. I'll have to look into that once I get my bike set up right.

 

[nismodan]

Machete:
There are a number of bikes out now meant to fit both the road & tri- disciplines.
The one that comes to mind right now (solely because it was in last month's Bicycling magazine) is the new Kestrel Talon.
Comes with a full Shimano 105 drivetrain, but the big thing that makes it road/tri ready is the proprietary seatpost which has 2 mounting positions to offer "road" and "tri" seat angles (probably something like 74 and 79 degrees).

Other than that, just slap a pair of aero bars on a road bike and you're good to go.
(I may, incidentally, have a set I'm not using that I could get rid of. )

Edit: Also, for a good and cheap cross bike check out the Motobecane's sold through BikesDirect. Not the greatest or lightest frames out there, but definitely worth it. Them and maybe a Surly Cross-Check.

 

[UDRider]

If youve got the cash, replace the cables and cable housing.
We cant tell if they NEED replacing but fresh cable/housing is always good.....if you're combfortable paying for that right now.

....housing is just as/if not more important for proper shifting as the cables.

Hmm thanks. I think I'll swap at least the shift cables. I am going to be routing them anyway so not a whole lot of extra effort.

 

[UDRider]

It's good to be riding again.

 

[machete]

Machete:
There are a number of bikes out now meant to fit both the road & tri- disciplines.
The one that comes to mind right now (solely because it was in last month's Bicycling magazine) is the new Kestrel Talon.
Comes with a full Shimano 105 drivetrain, but the big thing that makes it road/tri ready is the proprietary seatpost which has 2 mounting positions to offer "road" and "tri" seat angles (probably something like 74 and 79 degrees).

Other than that, just slap a pair of aero bars on a road bike and you're good to go.
(I may, incidentally, have a set I'm not using that I could get rid of. )

Edit: Also, for a good and cheap cross bike check out the Motobecane's sold through BikesDirect. Not the greatest or lightest frames out there, but definitely worth it. Them and maybe a Surly Cross-Check.

Dan, thanks dude. I will start researching that. The cycling part of the tri's I want to do, don't worry me so much. I can lug my ass up the mountain on climbs, and can trudge along on the runs. It's the swimming that I have to get done.
aren't shimano 105's the lower end of components? can I pick and choose and upgrade to dura ace, at least with the derailer, etc?

and lemme know about the aero bars, I'm sure I'll need something like that to look cool as I get passed by the dudes in full spandex suits and aero helmets.

 

[UDRider]

aren't shimano 105's the lower end of components? can I pick and choose and upgrade to dura ace, at least with the derailer, etc?

It is, but the difference is mainly in weight. If you have extra cash lying around sure you can go with Dura Ace, but other then being a bling bling it won't offer any real world advantage.

 

[slomustang]

I say go big and get Di2.

http://bike.shimano.com/publish/con.../products/road/di2.html#/site/product/7970/tt

 

[theAmazingKickstand]

It is, but the difference is mainly in weight. If you have extra cash lying around sure you can go with Dura Ace, but other then being a bling bling it won't offer any real world advantage.

The previous gen 10spd. Dura Ace/Ultegra shifters have the same working internals and differ in weight. The 105's, although not a bad product at all, do have an inferior internal design. There is a real world advantage to getting the Ultegra. A short cage rear Ul/DA works much better than a medium or long cage 105 rear.

The DA is bling. The ultegra is worth the money....specially

 

[nismodan]

Shimano's hierarchy of road groups is as follows:
Sora < Tiagra < 105 < Ultegra < Dura-Ace

Generally 105 is considered the lowest you can go to go racing.
Newer 105 has the same shaped hoods as the upper groups.

Ultegra is known as being the group to go for in terms of a good ratio of performance and reliability.
Dura-Ace is obviously the most "racey" and light-weight, but tends to be finnicky and requires more maintenance than Ultegra.

Di2 is.....neat.

 

[UDRider]

The previous gen 10spd. Dura Ace/Ultegra shifters have the same working internals and differ in weight. The 105's, although not a bad product at all, do have an inferior internal design. There is a real world advantage to getting the Ultegra. A short cage rear Ul/DA works much better than a medium or long cage 105 rear.

The DA is bling. The ultegra is worth the money....specially

Ah, my bad. I have been using SRAM for a while now, so not up to date on what Shimano is cooking up.

 

[UDRider]

Shimano's hierarchy of road groups is as follows:
Sora < Tiagra < 105 < Ultegra < Dura-Ace

Generally 105 is considered the lowest you can go to go racing.
Newer 105 has the same shaped hoods as the upper groups.

Meh I started out with tiagra. It didn't held me back. If someone gets dropped in lower cats it's not because of the gear.