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Do You Road Bike?
- Thread starter bicyclemech1
- Start date
I am acquiring a collection of protein powders and energy mixes. 
I don't use them, and can't seem to sell them.
Did a crit today. Went off a front with some guy, but we were caught after few laps. He went again after few laps, I didn't go because I didn't think he and others would get away. That was the winning break.
Did get two prims. Had no idea I got a second one, I was rotating through and trying to catch the break. I was wondering what the other guy was doing sprinting, or trying too.
I don't use them, and can't seem to sell them.Did a crit today. Went off a front with some guy, but we were caught after few laps. He went again after few laps, I didn't go because I didn't think he and others would get away. That was the winning break.
Did get two prims. Had no idea I got a second one, I was rotating through and trying to catch the break.
I was wondering what the other guy was doing sprinting, or trying too.
Roadstergal
Sergeant Jackrum
Were the prizes any good? 
I am acquiring T-shirts and water bottles.
I had a USA Productions tri today, and came in second overall women's. I was closing on first, and ended up 4 seconds behind her. I still haven't sorted my blister issue with the running shoes sans socks, and I'm sure I left more time than that on the table from gimping along.
It continues to be the bike that's my strength. I lowered the bars all the way, and have finally found a decently aero position; it helped greatly with the massive headwind we had.
6/18 was a big day for you, Z? Welcome to the club!
I am acquiring T-shirts and water bottles.
I had a USA Productions tri today, and came in second overall women's. I was closing on first, and ended up 4 seconds behind her.
I still haven't sorted my blister issue with the running shoes sans socks, and I'm sure I left more time than that on the table from gimping along.It continues to be the bike that's my strength. I lowered the bars all the way, and have finally found a decently aero position; it helped greatly with the massive headwind we had.
6/18 was a big day for you, Z? Welcome to the club!
Prims? Some Muscle Milk protein powders, Cytomax energy mix, cliff shot energy mix, box of cliff bars. I honestly have no idea how much these sell for. Tried listing Muscle Milk and Cytomax on BARF, got responses that somewhere they are selling for less. No links to where. I rather they gave tubes and brake pads.
}Dragon{
(╯°□°)╯︵ ┻━┻ ︵ ╯(°□° ╯)
Prims? Some Muscle Milk protein powders, Cytomax energy mix,
Edit: Sorry I had to laugh. I hooked a buddy up one time with some Cytomax for while he was racing sprotbiles. I grabbed an empty box to put a bunch of samples in, and the box was marked for a special order for some guy named Mat Mladin.
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theAmazingKickstand
New member
Burlingame!!!
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theAmazingKickstand
New member
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I am acquiring a collection of protein powders and energy mixes.
Did a crit today. Went off a front with some guy, but we were caught after few laps. He went again after few laps, I didn't go because I didn't think he and others would get away. That was the winning break.
Did get two prims. Had no idea I got a second one, I was rotating through and trying to catch the break.
I was there yelling. "Go AFM!"
Ken
sidehiller
twisty addict
I'm glad to see that there is a narrow two- wheeler thread in the BARF! I'm just getting into the sport and converted my 1994 Gary Fisher hard tail mountain bike into a roadie! I'm really enjoying it, but would LOVE to get my hands on a bike that doesn’t weigh 28 pounds! I am thinking of riding once a week (I generally ride my mountain bike (Trek EX8) 2-3 times a week) in exchange for one of my mountain bike days. Also, I'm thinking of doing a few 1-2-3 day trips around the bay area and eventually into the Sierras. I also (maybe on the same bike, but maybe on a different one) want to tackle a huge project like riding across the country (or similar mileage) in a couple of years. After my Alaska trip next year!
Anyway, sorry for the long winded description, but does anyone have any recommendations for either of the bikes I should use for one or the other purposes?
Anyway, sorry for the long winded description, but does anyone have any recommendations for either of the bikes I should use for one or the other purposes?
theAmazingKickstand
New member
Congratulations on your excellent decision.
Start off slow. Don't ride too much at once. Road riding is different from mountain biking cuz you pedal waaaaaayyyyyyy more. You're mostly pedaling non stop. On mountain bike you pedal a bit, stand up a bit, pedal some more, hop around, etc. Folks making the transition see some new pains and sore pop up that they've never felt before. Spend a lot of time learning about how you should sit on the bike and how you should pedal and what you should do to ride efficiently and injury free. You'll probably go thru one or two frames before you figure out what size you need and what kinda bike you like. Buy used popular name brands so you could sell them for the same money easily. Excellent carbon fiber, excellent aluminum, and excellent steel, are all excellent for riding long distance.
(Even the fanciest unubtanium steel kinda sucks if you're super strong or super...husky. In fact the fancier ones will kinda suck more.)
Low-mid end bikes will weigh about 18lbs. Fancier bikes will weigh 13-14lbs. You could get down to reliable 12lb bike depending on your wallet. Down to 10ish if you just wanna have your friends pick it up and tell you how awesome your bike is. Only the rotating mass really matters though. Wheels, crank, cassette. You won't feel the rest unless you're Cat 1 climber. Wheels you'll feel the most....but they have to be strong too. Extra fancy super light wheels really suck if they start rubbing your brake pads during out of saddle climbing or on sprints. You might even drop 2 pounds of body body weight in an instant should they start to flex mid 35mph corner.
Start off slow. Don't ride too much at once. Road riding is different from mountain biking cuz you pedal waaaaaayyyyyyy more. You're mostly pedaling non stop. On mountain bike you pedal a bit, stand up a bit, pedal some more, hop around, etc. Folks making the transition see some new pains and sore pop up that they've never felt before. Spend a lot of time learning about how you should sit on the bike and how you should pedal and what you should do to ride efficiently and injury free. You'll probably go thru one or two frames before you figure out what size you need and what kinda bike you like. Buy used popular name brands so you could sell them for the same money easily. Excellent carbon fiber, excellent aluminum, and excellent steel, are all excellent for riding long distance.
(Even the fanciest unubtanium steel kinda sucks if you're super strong or super...husky. In fact the fancier ones will kinda suck more.)
Low-mid end bikes will weigh about 18lbs. Fancier bikes will weigh 13-14lbs. You could get down to reliable 12lb bike depending on your wallet. Down to 10ish if you just wanna have your friends pick it up and tell you how awesome your bike is. Only the rotating mass really matters though. Wheels, crank, cassette. You won't feel the rest unless you're Cat 1 climber. Wheels you'll feel the most....but they have to be strong too. Extra fancy super light wheels really suck if they start rubbing your brake pads during out of saddle climbing or on sprints. You might even drop 2 pounds of body body weight in an instant should they start to flex mid 35mph corner.
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I am going to quote this before TAK deletes it.
Since you want to do some touring look for frames that having mounting points for rack, and overall more relaxed up right geometry. This way you can attach panniers. Something that have enough space between forks to accommodate fatter tires, around 25-28mm. Something like a none retarded hybrid (no shocks).
A pretty good forum that concentrates on touring: http://www.bikeforums.net/forumdisplay.php/47-Touring
Roadstergal
Sergeant Jackrum
I am going to quote this before TAK deletes it.
I'm a fan of the Topeak "MTX QuickRack" system; the bags that work with that system slide and click into place, no dicking around with Velcro. I have the Explorer rack and the previous gen of this bag, with stow-able panniers that you can use or not, depending on the load.
If you camp, a lightweight tent that packs small is a must, and inflatable sleeping pads with integrated pillows save a lot of space and weight. As mentioned, ease into it - take a few longer rides, then day trips, then try camping.
I dunno bout that, when I have my mt bike in granny gear and pedal one complete revolution, the bike only moves forward about half an inch so I gotta pedal like a running hamster.
sidehiller
twisty addict
Hahahaha! That’s too funny! I definitely notice a more sustained effort in pedaling the road bike (road version of my hard tail mountain bike!). In some ways its much harder. However, my short attention span gets in my way more than anything else. I have to constantly talk myself out of how bloody boring it is to ride a bicycle (instead of a M/C) up a road....
BTW: does anyone have specific bikes/ frames/ components that I should be looking for in my first serious roadie? How much $$ are we talking about?
BTW: does anyone have specific bikes/ frames/ components that I should be looking for in my first serious roadie? How much $$ are we talking about?
theAmazingKickstand
New member
MSRP of $2,500 - $3,000 will get you a very nice bike which, for most folks, will only be a wheel set away from "race ready." Depending on research you could get the same caliber bike for a $1k less or a bazzilion dollars more. You could also get a super amazing used bike for $1k-$3k but you really have to know what to look for. Don't buy from racers or fat guys. Bring someone amazingly familiar to check out the fancy bike with ya.
Lucky for you "touring" wheels will all be on the cheaper end. They're all super heavy but some will cost more if they're laced to a fancy hub. Get something with normal spokes, and spokes that you can replace without taking the hub apart. I prefer straight pull spokes in general but that'll be harder to find on a touring wheel. You'll probably get something with Shimano bits and you should try to get Ultegra or better.....cuz you'll be using it a lot and as a group it works a bit better than 105. Lotsa companies are cheaping out by saying it's an "Ultegra" bike but sticking on some junk FSA crank....thats the most expensive part!
SRAM's really popular and cheap now but the whole front shifting is, uh, not amazing. You can fix that by using Shimano chain rings/crank and front der.The rear works fine but is loud if you go with the fancier cassettes. The whole group feels a bit "cheaper" to the touch. Up to you if you care about that. If you want Campy for cheap you'll probably be shopping used. I prefer the 10 speed way more to the new 11 speed even though the extra new 11 speed works a bit better than the older new 11 speed.
Get a name brand bike/frame so you could sell it easily down the road. Everyone wants a Trek or Specialized or Cannondale. The Specialized's look kinda stupid but they ride just fine and people love 'em. From popular brands I like Cannondale's cuz the "race" ones are still shaped like bicycles should be and they don't crack nearly as much since they stopped "handmaking them in the USA" and started stamping em out over sea's. The paints a lot better too cuz they don't have any laws about health or chemicals or any of that junk. They're stiff and snappy in general and one of them's my personal fave. A Caad10 rides better than cheapie carbon frames for me and they really hold up a good fight with a BMW and and old Escort. I use one for commuting or if I think I have higher than normal chance of crashing. Caad 8 and 9 is really good too if your'e not a super light lady. Lotsa carbon frames are about the same now but a few stand out a bit and few kinda suck.
I think a good stiff frame and good wheels are most important. If I have those two I'd be kinda alright with whatever else is on the bike. Quality brake calipers and pads will make a difference too but if you use them too much you'll just have to pedal more.
Lucky for you "touring" wheels will all be on the cheaper end. They're all super heavy but some will cost more if they're laced to a fancy hub. Get something with normal spokes, and spokes that you can replace without taking the hub apart. I prefer straight pull spokes in general but that'll be harder to find on a touring wheel. You'll probably get something with Shimano bits and you should try to get Ultegra or better.....cuz you'll be using it a lot and as a group it works a bit better than 105. Lotsa companies are cheaping out by saying it's an "Ultegra" bike but sticking on some junk FSA crank....thats the most expensive part!
SRAM's really popular and cheap now but the whole front shifting is, uh, not amazing. You can fix that by using Shimano chain rings/crank and front der.The rear works fine but is loud if you go with the fancier cassettes. The whole group feels a bit "cheaper" to the touch. Up to you if you care about that. If you want Campy for cheap you'll probably be shopping used. I prefer the 10 speed way more to the new 11 speed even though the extra new 11 speed works a bit better than the older new 11 speed.
Get a name brand bike/frame so you could sell it easily down the road. Everyone wants a Trek or Specialized or Cannondale. The Specialized's look kinda stupid but they ride just fine and people love 'em. From popular brands I like Cannondale's cuz the "race" ones are still shaped like bicycles should be and they don't crack nearly as much since they stopped "handmaking them in the USA" and started stamping em out over sea's. The paints a lot better too cuz they don't have any laws about health or chemicals or any of that junk. They're stiff and snappy in general and one of them's my personal fave. A Caad10 rides better than cheapie carbon frames for me and they really hold up a good fight with a BMW and and old Escort. I use one for commuting or if I think I have higher than normal chance of crashing. Caad 8 and 9 is really good too if your'e not a super light lady. Lotsa carbon frames are about the same now but a few stand out a bit and few kinda suck.
I think a good stiff frame and good wheels are most important. If I have those two I'd be kinda alright with whatever else is on the bike. Quality brake calipers and pads will make a difference too but if you use them too much you'll just have to pedal more.
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theAmazingKickstand
New member
Now is actually still a great time to buy used cuz everyone is still unloading their old 10 speed Shimano bikes to get the new 10 speed Shimano bikes which don't work any better and in some cases worse......but the new DA front shifting is heaven. You could mash it into the big ring up hill and out of saddle and it'll take it just fine. All the dudes in the know are asking way more than "used" prices for their 10 speed Campy junk and buyers like me are pissed off about it.
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