• There has been a recent cluster of spammers accessing BARFer accounts and posting spam. To safeguard your account, please consider changing your password. It would be even better to take the additional step of enabling 2 Factor Authentication (2FA) on your BARF account. Read more here.

Do You Road Bike?

theAmazingKickstand said:
MSRP of $2,500 - $3,000 will get you a very nice bike which, for most folks, will only be a wheel set away from "race ready." Depending on research you could get the same caliber bike for a $1k less or a bazzilion dollars more. You could also get a super amazing used bike for $1k-$3k but you really have to know what to look for. Don't buy from racers or fat guys. Bring someone amazingly familiar to check out the fancy bike with ya.
Click to expand...

Yeah those guys keep crashing them and stuff.

If I sell my bike add will read "Never wheelied, owned by adult, dropped in a garage while washing." Sure that explains scratch up pedals, brakes, hoods, whole in the saddle.... :laughing
 
Hahaha! Thanks for the information! What I really want to find is the Aprilia Mille of the road bike world. Way, way under rated for what you get! Time to start my homework!
 
I have the Ninja 650 of roadbikes. A bit heavy to really count as 'sporty,' but reliable, and often gets me to the line before the more picky stuff in 'tortoise and hare' fashion. :teeth

The black bike, that is. The red one is... I dunno, a Goldwing; heavy, lots of storage. But slower.
 
Mille44, if buying new, checkout bikesdirect - their prices are pretty reasonable. I know most would say buy a name brand frame but I'm totally happy with the bike that I bought. (I have no trouble keeping up / passing my friends with Trek, Cannondale, etc.) Already crashed @ 15-20 mph once due to potholes and no cracks on the frame - just massive scratches on the wheel rim =( If I had to do it all over again; I'd perhaps buy used on CL and sit on as many bikes as possible. Anyway, just do your due diligence in researching and have fun!

http://forums.roadbikereview.com/
http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/road_bikes.htm
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2001.JPG
    IMG_2001.JPG
    185.5 KB · Views: 136
Buying a popular name brand is only a plus when it comes time to re-sell. Lotsa folks mess up on the size when getting ther first road bike.....usually it's too big =)
If one bike feels better or worse or turns better or worse on the store test ride, it's only cuz it was set up differently by chance when you hopped on it.
(When you're not riding leave the front der. in the small ring and the rear der. in the small cog. This way the springs won't be stretched out for days/weeks/months and will last much longer.)
 
Last edited:
* Thanks for the tip about the der TAK; I just ran out to the garage to check up on her and she's good to go! :thumbup
 
Jon,
You should remove the black disc on you rear wheel......it'll shave off 3 grams, and make you more aero :rolleyes, plus it looks cleaner without it.

LOL, recongnize the Spidi suit it my avatar?
 
^^^glad someone else said it. :laughing Just be sure the rear der. is set up right before you throw out the guard. The official term for that plate is "Retard Guard." Throw away the valve caps and the little finger tightened nut on the stems too.
I can't tel from the pics but if you havn't already, be sure to put the cable housing guard tape where the housing touches the frame. The housing will really grind thru the paint after just a short time. Not really an issue but really ugly. When you turn the handle bars you'll note that the housing moves up and down along the frame; apply the tape so that it covers that entire distance of movement. Use real guard tape from a bike shop. The secretaries desk scotch tape won't cut it.
 
Last edited:
Good to hear from you bootsy, hope you and family are well. And yeah, I've always regret letting go of that spidi! haha

I kinda like the "retard guard" :laughing; it makes other cyclists think I'm a total noob & infuriates them when I pass them on the inclines! lol It doesn't bother me much & I'm really lazy too so I'll probably remove it at my next servicing or my next flat.

Thanks again for the tips tak but what's the purpose of removing valve caps and such? isn't it to prevent debris from entering the valve stem? Or is for "cyclist rep"?! In any case, I just ride for fitness and not to race; so I really don't care what other cyclists think!
 
Well at least there are no spoke reflectors. :twofinger :laughing

After todays race 8 points left. :party
 
UDRider said:
After todays race 8 points left. :party
Click to expand...

Rad!!!!



Much more importantly though, cyclists will laugh at other cyclists should they have those valve caps and little nuts...hee-hee.
Nothing can get in the presta valve once you tighten it so no need for the cap. It doesn't help or hurt anything if you take them off or leave them on. Of three big offenses this is probably the least judged....but still judged severely.
 
Guys and two chicks,

I'm looking for a set of sub 1450gm wheels or just a mid-high end rear wheel. Tubular or clincher, new or used, (clincher only if just the rear).
I've got a buncha good stuff to trade + or - cash. Pedals, group parts, bars, etc. If you've got wheels you want gone I can email you pics of everything I've got and wheel work from there.

Thanks
 
Last edited:
Saddles......While my sit bones are becoming adjusted to the seat I am having an issue with numbness. Is that normal? Do I need to cough up the dough for a new saddle before my Metric Century ride? If so where and what do I look for?
 
First you need to make sure your current saddles straight; parallel with the ground. Then get quality bibs....then you'll most likely end up using a fairly hard saddle with a slight cut out. Don't waste too much money buying 10 different soft fatass saddles or "women specific" saddles.
 
Ive got a good bib and my seat was adjusted properly.
 
Is the saddle parallel with the ground? Does the bib have a relatively firm "chamois?"
If the upper body isn't set up right you could be getting forced to roll your hips forward too. That's a common issue. A soft saddle will cause you to dig in and put too much weight on your bajooja and the area behind it and all the important nerves in there.
The person who adjusted your seat properly will be able to fix your issues quickly.
Do you or the boyfriend have any fancy wheels you don't need?
 
Last edited:
Test ride the Specialized Oura Expert Gel seat. So far, the most comfortable that my wife has tried. Terry makes nice seats, as well. Find a shop that will let you take one for a test ride. Sports Basement will let you test ride, but they don't carry the seat.
 
TAKS took my disc, but he'll pry my valve caps and little screws out of my cold dead hands. :laughing

I have two seats, one really narrow and one firm gel, if you want to try one out.
 
We went on a little 4th of July ride today. The British will not keep us from riding our bikes!

2ilg0hu.jpg



I saw something I've never seen before - a guy on Cañada drafting a Passat with its hazards on. He must have been trying to get KOMs on Strava. :p

Speaking of, we saw a Strava dude out on the road. They have a nice-looking kit.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top