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What did you do to your dirty bike today?

Lunch Box said:
Might wanna see a doctor about that, man. :wtf
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haha

byke said:
Ahahaha!

Wil, what year is it? If it has a Mikuni, it's probably never going to be crisp, but you can try the jd jet kit as the needle is supposed to be much better than stock. If you find that you're jetting in circles, you might consider replacing the crank seals. Also, if you have something like an fmf turbine core, or pro circuit equivalent, it may always splooge a little.
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2002 and I already swapped in a PWK AS from JD, at their recommended settings. The bike has very low hours, but I haven't done a leak down test yet. Still had the original front tire when I picked it up. I pulled the plug yesterday and it's a nice mocha brown (4 hours on that plug).

I do have a pro-circuit chamber and pipe.

GPRMsdsl.jpg
 
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I don't have much experience with carb tuning. I've been following the instructions in this thread: http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/347305-is-your-two-stroke-running-rich-read-here/

The idle circuit is good.
The needle is next, which has some bogging, but I wonder if that's just the lack of power being it's a 125.
If I move the clip down, wouldn't that make it richer, burning colder, meaning more spooge?
With a nice colored plug I feel like I shouldn't even change the jetting.

Maybe I'll pull it apart tonight and do the leak down test.
 
Moving the clip to a lower position raises the needle, which lets in more fuel relative to air volume, so that's correct, it would be richer. 125's do tend to sound boggy in general at low rpm, but you'll know a true bog because it's almost like putting on the brakes when you're not expecting it.

Does it smoke a shit ton? If it smokes more than you think it should, it could be letting in tranny fluid from the right side crank seal, which is super common. The left side is also a common leaker (air), but you can usually tell because there will be some oily grit around the seal (pull the left cover and flywheel to inspect). The bummer about these leaks is that you can drive yourself crazy with jetting going in circles trying to fix conflicting symptoms. Both seals can be fairly easy replaced without pulling the motor, or doing major engine work, just make sure you grease them properly or the new ones will get smoked on startup and you'll go even moar crazy.
 
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I replaced the coil, float needle, sparkplug and cleaned the carb in hopes of figuring out my starting problems. It did help some but I figured out that the bike was stalling out at full lock and come to find my manual decomp cable was too tight so I disconnected it for now. It starts easier now, but not 100% better.
 
With tuning a 2t I've found that you get the PJ and main correct, then tune the area in between. There are two parts that get you: the needle diameter (1/8-1/2) and the severity of the taper. With a 125 you want a steep taper to get you on the pipe faster; from your description it sounds like your diameter is too small (rich) so it's boggin'. Only way to change this is a different needle. You want a barely rich needle diameter to get the most punch out of the 125cc, then the taper that'll carry that power to the top end. Once you get the diameter right, you'll know it. The bike will feel good off the bottom with a crisp exhaust note; then play with the clip position to keep it crisp all the way up.

Clip position just changes when the taper starts (where you start the active transition from needle diameter to MJ really).
 
22 years of riding carbureted 2-strokes and I've learned how to jet them along the way. However, this damned YZ250 with its turbine spark arrestor made me throw in the towel on jetting away the spooge.

spooge-XL.jpg
 
Looks like my CR.
I'm thinking of putting a catch can back there to recycle it.
 
I've got the FMF turbine core sparky silencer. Pipe looks like yards sale after 10hrs. I was able to reduce spooge, but not eliminate it even when I went dangerous lean with my jetting. Fresh piston, rings, seals etc etc. Only time I dont get some splooge is if I am on the pipe all the time... which never happens as I only really ride trails. Upon more reading on Thumpertalk, it seems the turbine type sparkies slow the airdown or spinning it out (I dunno or remember the exact science) allowing the oil to collect more easily in the silencer. So if you have a turbine type sparky and spend most of your time on the trail, spooge my be inevitable. At least that is what I settled on...
 
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Yuppers. Same issue on my KDX200 with the Turbinecore pipe. I stopped worrying about it.
 
Good to know.
All of this applies to me as well.
 
OaklandF4i said:
So if you have a turbine type sparky and spend most of your time on the trail, spooge my be inevitable.
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All my smokers had turbines (except maybe the KTM had a screen). Some were spooge-free, some had minor spooge, none spooged like this YZ250. Of course I raced a lot with those bikes and only exclusively trail rode this YZ250 and the previous CR250.

BTW, FMF turbine silencers have spooge drains about half way up the body, on the bottom. Use when warm.
 
I went back to the stock muffler on my KDX. No more re-packing, and a drain screw for the oil that collects in there.
The extra weight & and less hp is not a big deal.
 
They need to go back to the old mesh type that you can easily remove and soak, or sand blast, because these turbine style are teh suuuuuuuuck.
 
Bought a new one.

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New 2009 KTM 250 XC-W. Been sitting at a dealer in Grass Valley, they finally decided to get rid of it below cost.
 
They had a few NOS ktms in grass valley there. I'm sure that ive looked at that bike before. You would think that accepting reasonable offers on older new bikes is better than letting them sit on the floor for years would be better, but I guess not for them. They must buy the bikes outright instead of floorplanning them.
 
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