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What did you do to your dirty bike today?

So I set the sag on the CR a little while ago. Heres where I'm at;

Race Sag 100mm
Static Sag 20mm

Yardsale, I know you said 40mm was where I should be for static sag, but do you think 20mm is way off?
 
You can't really worry about static sag, just go with race sag. The problem is that rider weight is all over the place and so are the spring rates, but the bike weight doesn't really change nearly as significantly. So, if the bike were correctly sprung for a 300lb rider and race sage were set to 100mm, there probably wouldn't be any static sag. Or, if the bike were correctly spring for a 100lb rider and race sag were set to 100mm, there would probably be lots of static sag. Static sag is relative to rider weight and spring rates, which is why race sag is what you adjust for. You could look to static sag as an indicator of shock/linkage bearing wear, but you can feel that when you lift the bike, or when you lift the rear wheel when it's on the stand.
 
byke said:
You can't really worry about static sag, just go with race sag.
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This is not good advice.

Having a bike that is under or over sprung, but balanced will handle better than a bike that has the spring cranked way down or backed way off to get the correct race sag.

A bike with too soft a spring preloaded to the point of correct race sag will kick & top out causing the bike be very skittish in most conditions.

A bike with too stiff a spring backed off to the point of correct race sag will wallow & steer like a garbage truck.

An incorrectly sprung (either way) bike with the correct static sag will have a poor seat ride but be much safer.
 
Race sag = rider plus all gear sitting on bike with feet on pegs.

Static sag = bike alone.

..no?
 
I did say "correctly sprung". With the correct springs for your weight, you set race sag. Static sag just ends up being wherever it is, you don't adjust for it.
 
Thanks Lighterknot for the quick read and everyone else for their comments. Im going to Stonyford on friday for a couple of days so I will have lots of time to feel it out and make adjustments. From the article it basically says I need a stiffer spring so i might run the sag maybe around 95mm so i dont stress the spring out too much and still have it be responsive.
 
Saltwater, remember that the sag numbers are a reduction from the starting measure of the bike completely off the ground. Measure from axle to a point on the fender or bar clamps, then take it off the stand and measure again. The difference is the static sag, with you on the bike the difference is the race sag. I mention this because your above statement of "leaving it a 95mm so not to stress the spring" is backwards. If you only have 95mm of race sag (and you need stiffer springs) then you have to crank the pre-load more than if you have 100mm of sag....reactive force. Many folks will run 110mm race, even 115 but it depends on if you have PDS or linkage and what you use the bike for.
 
It sounded right in my head when I did the math but you are correct. I meant 105 mm for less tension on the spring. This would probably be better for what I do with the bike which is trail riding. Thanks for the explanation. :thumbup
 
I bet if you adjust the race sag to closer to 107-110 your static sag may end up being close but yes, it sounds like you need a stiffer spring. Especially if you ever wanted to do any motocross with it.

Byke go edit your post...lol
 
Bah, without getting into specific riding types, the general rule for sag has been 100mm since the beginning of time. There was the big bang, sag set to 100mm, then dinosaurs, a few ice ices, and so on.
 
byke said:
Bah, without getting into specific riding types, the general rule for sag has been 100mm since the beginning of time. There was the big bang, sag set to 100mm, then dinosaurs, a few ice ices, and so on.
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I wonder what Lou used as a kid, then? You know, before the Big Bang.
 
Crap, if you're bringing him up, even jokingly, then my Lou must be hanging out...at least a little bit. :laughing
 
Tried to clean the air filter on the 300 and the foam started flaking apart so new filter and cleaned carb. Got some chunks out of the pilot jet then it was running funky so ended up completely rejeting the whole thing. Feels pretty good but was testing on the main street and parking lot in front of my shop with no helmet available. Will be heading to cow on Sunday for the final test and tune. Next project will be my leaking counter shaft seal. Put a new kit in it but it didn't hold so I've just been using it like an auto lube for the chain.

EDIT: Chain is super loose for the non linkage rear suspension :p
 
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Damn!!! Bike ran absolutely awesome. Hits hard. Lugs fine without getting sputtery. Did some fire road ripping and a bunch of very tight single track. Made me remember why I love this bike. Now I just have to fix the oil leaking front sprocket seal and I'm thinking about treating it to an eBay plastic kit.
 
^^Good news, a properly jetted bike is a treat. Mine's a little fat since moving up in elevation, but I leave it that way for the times I ride at sea level.
 
Took down the 350 down for a full service,
greased head bearings, swing arm and linkage bearings, trued both wheels, bled brakes, air filter, check valves, oil and filter, sent shock out for service, and a bunch of other little things.
 
TrackCage said:
Do you mind me asking the going rate for this gem? Looks very clean and well set up (nicer than my '02, that's for sure)...
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The owner has been grumbling about selling it on craigslist. I asked if he wanted me to list it on BARF and he said he's thinking about it. I'll bet if you twist his arm he will sell it.

IMAG0046-L.jpg


It no longer has the graphics. I recently measured all the clutch plates (thick like new) and replaced the clutch cable on it to get the Rekluse back in adjustment. 295 motor pulls everywhere but spooges from the power valve vent so much I added a little catch bottle to keep it off my floor. Compression was 150psi at the previous owner's garage (~4500ft) with a gauge that didn't even thread into the hole. I can measure it with a real gauge. Will need a new rear tire and chain/sprockets soon.

It's tall and the levers bend or break every damn time it tips over.
 
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