What did you do to your dirty bike today?

[byke]

What's the cr250 need?

Checked valves and the exhausts were ~.009, which is in spec, but both intakes were a no-go with a .0015. Both intakes had .074 shim, so I went to .068, which left a gap of about .0025, then I went to a .0655, which left a gap of ~.005, muy bueno. Slapped her back together and she fired first kick and was idling nicely. So, that's all fine and dandy, but typically once valves start moving, they don't stop. Buuuuut the head was fully rebuilt 80hrs ago and this is the first adjustment after rebuild and I remember setting them on the tight side initially. Plus, both intakes were the same and when a head starts getting cooked, it's usually the left side that goes first. Temps have also gone from mid-70's to mid-40's since I last started it. I'm hoping it was just a late break-in/temp adjustment and not the more common wandering adjustment...

 

[2strokeYardSale]

WChecked valves and the exhausts were ~.009, which is in spec, but both intakes were a no-go with a .0015. Both intakes had .074 shim, so I went to .068, which left a gap of about .0025, then I went to a .0655, which left a gap of ~.005, muy bueno. Slapped her back together and she fired first kick and was idling nicely. So, that's all fine and dandy, but typically once valves start moving, they don't stop. Buuuuut the head was fully rebuilt 80hrs ago and this is the first adjustment after rebuild and I remember setting them on the tight side initially. Plus, both intakes were the same and when a head starts getting cooked, it's usually the left side that goes first. Temps have also gone from mid-70's to mid-40's since I last started it. I'm hoping it was just a late break-in/temp adjustment and not the more common wandering adjustment...

There's an app for that...

 

[byke]

Oh that's just mean! I love smokers and will have another.

 

[1962siia]

What's the cr250 need?

Not much. Just need to replace the crank seals and get a new water pump drive gear. My plastic one is cracked in several places. Then I just need to reassemble it. I haven't ordered the drive gear yet but once I do it should all go back together in a few hours. I've just been focused on trials bike and Baja trip in January. I'll get back on the cr soon. Have fun up there!

 

[rt rider]

Factoryconnect springs front and rear. I also laced up an 18" rear rim in place of the 19" that came on the bike. Now I just need to find an under bar damper mount that will work with the tag triple.

 

[Deftone]

Cleaned up the 450EXC and posted on CL.

 

[Saltwater]

I replaced the right fork seal and changed the oil in both forks. They feel good now and no leaky.

 

[thedub]

Handguards.

The bike came with the KTM Hardparts handguards. My last bike had Moose Racing guards. As far as I can tell they are the exact same thing with a different logo etched on the side.

The problem with these handguards is that they stick straight out, horizontal with the ground. You can't just rotate them down, because the clamp is on the bar's bend so it moves at an angle. This leaves the levers hanging down below the guards and susceptible to damage.

On my last bike, both levers broke off at the relief. I didn't mind that much, I just filed them smooth and ran them as shorty lever. But last weekend, I had a crash on this bike that broke off my clutch lever quite a bit higher up, making it a mini 1-finger lever. I was lucky that it didn't break off even higher and leave me stranded.

Hanguards only do two things; protect your hands from brush, and protect your levers in a tip over. What's the point of having guards that don't do the latter? So I put on some different ones, that I think are much better. Cycra Probends.

The bend of these handguards protect the levers much better.

 

[superhypered]

The other ones couldn't be adjusted down?

 

[thedub]

The other ones couldn't be adjusted down?

You can't just rotate them down, because the clamp is on the bar's bend so it moves at an angle.

It's kind of hard to explain. But if you have ever tried to do it, you would understand. The clamp is on the bend of the bar, so instead of just rotating down, it rotates down at a 45* angle. Then the end of the handgurad and the clamp don't line up square anymore. You can try to loosen all the hardware, and rotate them down, then when you tighten the clamps, it just goes right back to it's natural position.

 

[superhypered]

Didn't see where you said that, my bad lol

I don't have much experience with the hand guards, just always had the Acerbis ones on my xr which do a great job of covering the levers. And mine do a little swiveling, but the brake fluid reservoir gets in the way of the right side being adjusted.

 

[thedub]

Didn't see where you said that, my bad lol

I don't have much experience with the hand guards, just always had the Acerbis ones on my xr which do a great job of covering the levers. And mine do a little swiveling, but the brake fluid reservoir gets in the way of the right side being adjusted.

Yeah, some guards are able to be adjusted a little where the bar bolts to the clamp. The Bark Busters on my Tiger 800 are nice and you can pretty much put them where ever you want. These KTM/Moose Racing ones just suck.

 

[Saltwater]

I have those on my XRL and love them. I need to get a set for my CR.

 

[thedub]

This thread hasn't been bumped in so long I had to change the display options just to see it.

I did something dumb...

I had to swing the subframe up for better access to the part I was working on. I backed off the upper bolts a couple turns, unbolted the silencer, took out the bottom bolts and swung it right up. When I re-installed I forgot to tighten the upper bolts back down. I think I did 3 rides with it like that.

No catastrophic failure or anything, but the subframe banging around on those loose bolts kind of mucked up the threads. One side was ok, but the other side didn't really want to get tight anymore. So I got two brand new bolts from the dealer, then chased out the threads with a tap. To make matters worse, none of my tap handles would fit thanks to the frame spar and the shock. So I had to go ghetto on it. It worked out ok, since I wasn't cutting new threads. Right as rain now.

 

[1962siia]

Put some 16" wheels on the xr100. Kart track time!

Also recently installed baja kit on the xrr after the last ride where the bike just completely shut off in the rain. Planning for a muddy rain ride on Sunday to test out everything before the upcoming baja trip.

 

[RickM]

Last time out riding there was a creaking sound from the rear as the wheel went up and down. So I decided to service the shock/swingarm/linkage pivots bearings.

Welp...managed to break the plastic cages off the needle bearings while giving it a good clean ....luckily none of the needles went missing.

Managed to carefully place all the needles back in there with fresh grease.

I hoping that plastic cage was there just to hold it in for ease of assembly. I guess I should have new bearings on hand before the next service.

Also rebuilt front master cyl. Now front brake works quite a bit better.

Can't wait to test it out at carnegie tomorrow

 

[byke]

If by plastic cage you're referring to that brownish stringy thing in the first pic, that's actually old grease...really old!

 

[Lunch Box]

If by plastic cage you're referring to that brownish stringy thing in the first pic, that's actually old grease...really old!

I was just thinking that. I think that if it were me, I would leave it disassembled while I ordered fresh bearings.

 

[RickM]

If by plastic cage you're referring to that brownish stringy thing in the first pic, that's actually old grease...really old!

Ah.. good then. That's what I originally thought when I saw it first and started poking out the pieces. Then the rest of it came out as one piece like in that picture and I thought that was a plastic cage and not the solidified old grease base.

I removed the solidified grease off all the bearings in the rocker arm and the dogbone/linkage and places the needle/rollers individually with new grease. But I did not take it out on the swingarm pivot as that did not break when I wiped the bearing with towel and I still thought it was a plastic retaining cage. I'll remove the swingarm and clean it out after tomorrows ride

 

[RickM]

I was just thinking that. I think that if it were me, I would leave it disassembled while I ordered fresh bearings.

I want to get new bearings in there. But like usual for me I wait till the night before a planned ride to decide to do some maintenance leaving me woth no time to wait for parts lol.
Anyways there is no play between the inner race and rocker arm/linkage and it all feels normal . So I think it's safe for now.