• There has been a recent cluster of spammers accessing BARFer accounts and posting spam. To safeguard your account, please consider changing your password. It would be even better to take the additional step of enabling 2 Factor Authentication (2FA) on your BARF account. Read more here.

What did you do to your dirty bike today?

Do you like it'd littler rack? Fits a playmate cooler perfectly ;)
 
arthur1265 said:
replaced brake pads on my 450...

Sold the lady's xr100 and bought a 06 crf150f, so oil change, chain cleaning, new bars, still need to change/check air filter.

Also need new levers for her.
Click to expand...

I'm in the market for a 150 or 2, what year is yours and what did you pay, if you don't mind?

Edit - I see in your sig its a 06.
 
Last edited:
im going to get it muddy at frank raines tomorrow:teeth:teeth
 
SM610 said:
I'm in the market for a 150 or 2, what year is yours and what did you pay, if you don't mind?

Edit - I see in your sig its a 06.
Click to expand...

most of the 150s i have been seeing that are 06 + (electric start) are priced around 1800-2300.. Guy wanted 1800 for this one but i got it for 1300...screaming deal for sure since all it needed are some bars,levers, and a side panel was missing.
 
arthur1265 said:
most of the 150s i have been seeing that are 06 + (electric start) are priced around 1800-2300.. Guy wanted 1800 for this one but i got it for 1300...screaming deal for sure since all it needed are some bars,levers, and a side panel was missing.
Click to expand...

See, that's the problem. Craigslist shows every knucklehead that their bike is worth x, whether it is or not. $1300 is fair for a bike with bent bars/levers/ panels. Actually, its the high end of fair. Then some idiot who financed their kids bike decides that he's got $4500 into his crf150, and wants to break even. Everyone else sees his bike on craigslist for $3000 and prices theirs accordingly. Meanwhile that guy never sells his bike for that much, and the market is left all inflated.

:x
 
Just got my suspension revalved/resprung/ect...
Hopefully I can get out this weekend and ride it.
946153_10153966063468846_8221422513250724268_n.jpg
 
SM610 said:
See, that's the problem. Craigslist shows every knucklehead that their bike is worth x, whether it is or not. $1300 is fair for a bike with bent bars/levers/ panels. Actually, its the high end of fair. Then some idiot who financed their kids bike decides that he's got $4500 into his crf150, and wants to break even. Everyone else sees his bike on craigslist for $3000 and prices theirs accordingly. Meanwhile that guy never sells his bike for that much, and the market is left all inflated.

:x
Click to expand...

The flip side is that even if you don't inflate your price, you still get tire kickers emailing you and saying "will you sell for xx(~50% of your asking price)" without ever seeing the bike.
 
Finally started tearing into the rustbucket/basketcase TLR200 Reflex that I picked up awhile back (Thanks, Daniel!). Got far enough in to realize that I had not ordered all of the parts I'll need to restore basic functionality to the bike. One more order placed, and one more week of waiting. No rush, though. :thumbup
 
Oh cool. I figured the reflux :laughing would be getting pushed back a bit. Glad to see you moving forward. :Popcorn
 
Sooooo this is what I had to do to pull the carb....

nPbMoav.jpg


And here's what a normal carb should look like. Proper carb on the right, stupid cinder block carb on the left...

Em2JKdb.jpg


The bike's ten years old, so the rubber isn't what it used to be. You could pull it out the front, but there's no putting it back. Really cranky with aluminum frames and four strokes right now. People usually hate 4t's because of the head/valves, but valves take a seat and you can forget about them for a long time as long as you stay off the limiter and keep your filter clean, plus they're really easy to check and adjust. It took me significantly more time to adjust the float in the carb then it would to adjust the valves.
 
Some people prefer the 'out the back' method'. You usually don't have to remove the entire subframe, though, just take out the bottom bolts and swing it up a little.
 
Never understood the sub-frame flip up thing. You're only leaving one bolt and it's one that you've already loosened. Even worse, you have to pull the muffler to flip it up, whereas you don't if you remove the whole thing straight back. Maybe for a dual sport where you have the signal/taillight wires and the connectors are in spot where they're difficult to access? Anyway, I can't get the boot fully on that way, even with trying to leverage a screwdriver on the lip to pull it forward, or if I'm able to get it close, I can't do that *and* tighten the clamp at the same time, nor can I put it on the boot and then push it forward while trying to tighten it. So, I pull the airbox from the sub-frame and install it first, then install the sub-frame. What I need to do is buy some new rubber, though I'm sure they're plenty old sitting on a shelf somewhere for years, but probably still more pliable than mine.

Aaaaaaanyway, went to Prairie City yesterday and had a pretty decent time. Spun quite a few laps on the little moto track to get myself good and tired. Need to get back into riding shape.
 
byke said:
Never understood the sub-frame flip up thing. You're only leaving one bolt and it's one that you've already loosened. Even worse, you have to pull the muffler to flip it up, whereas you don't if you remove the whole thing straight back. Maybe for a dual sport where you have the signal/taillight wires and the connectors are in spot where they're difficult to access? Anyway, I can't get the boot fully on that way, even with trying to leverage a screwdriver on the lip to pull it forward, or if I'm able to get it close, I can't do that *and* tighten the clamp at the same time, nor can I put it on the boot and then push it forward while trying to tighten it. So, I pull the airbox from the sub-frame and install it first, then install the sub-frame. What I need to do is buy some new rubber, though I'm sure they're plenty old sitting on a shelf somewhere for years, but probably still more pliable than mine.
Click to expand...

True that.

On my KTM the battery is in the air box, so to remove the subframe completely I have to unplug all the harnesses and feed them through the little passage. The silencer is two bolts that come off in about 30 seconds.

I find that ease of removing the carb is directly related to the temperature in my work space. On a hot August day, the rubber air box boot just mushes out of the way and the carb pops right out. In winter, when it's 40 in my garage, I use the subframe flip-up method because that rubber is super stiff and I can barely get it to budge.
 
Yeah good point. It was only like ten days ago where it didn't get over 34F during the day. Bike ran so killer on Sunday. I could start it by hand. My thigh muscles are still super sore. Need to get out again this weekend.
 
SM610 said:
I'm still a little unclear about the purpose of those things. There is still air in the tire, yes? You said 9-10 lbs. What happens if you get a puncture? You say that you don't carry tools for tube change, and...so...but...I don't get it. :laughing

Is there a thread about this already?


Oh, and today I did one of my normal, insane, super detail cleanings on the WR. When I was in baja, we found some mud that turned into acidic concrete. I got most of it off right away, but there was some deep areas that I missed. Today was tank, panels, fenders off and 2+good hours of cleaning with the music on loud.

This is a clear sign that I need to go for a ride.:laughing But damn it, its still a bit too wet!! The other side of this is, having my bike this clean is a sure way to get it dirty again! :party
Click to expand...


The tubliss rear you can run stupid low pressures, if it's a hard sidewall tire you can go 0-3, I run an AT81 with about 4-6 lbs and I've had people ride it and say it almost has too much grip. Opens up more tire opportunities when you can run lower pressure to get it to deform rather than running softer compounds that wear quicker. The front you just run normal pressure and don't worry about flats on either. You can run slime for punctures or bring a simple plug kit like a street bike
 
byke said:
Yeah good point. It was only like ten days ago where it didn't get over 34F during the day. Bike ran so killer on Sunday. I could start it by hand. My thigh muscles are still super sore. Need to get out again this weekend.
Click to expand...

Ok, I wanna go, but what's open?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top