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What did you do to your dirty bike today?

2strokeYardSale said:
Anyway, I'm kind of disappointed with my handguards always getting tweaked from minor tip-overs. Last week the left one got tweaked in a little Moab style crash and the right one got tweaked when the wind blew my parked by over in the staging area. johnnymac and byke and I were talking about how crummy the inserts are. I got to the google and found these threaded inserts.

259.jpg


http://www.systemtechracing.com/category_s/259.htm
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I also got fed up with my hand guards pointing up towards the sky after every tip over. So for the last 85 hours I've been using what I consider to be the ultimate handguard mounting solution. The threaded bar end inserts, as well as the BRP bar clamp rigid hand guard mounts.

SUB_HG_MNT_Web-500x500.jpg


My hand guards don't move an inch.
 
thedub said:
I also got fed up with my hand guards pointing up towards the sky after every tip over. So for the last 85 hours I've been using what I consider to be the ultimate handguard mounting solution. The threaded bar end inserts, as well as the BRP bar clamp rigid hand guard mounts.

SUB_HG_MNT_Web-500x500.jpg


My hand guards don't move an inch.
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I also installed both. They are great and worth every penny.
 
Those threaded inserts work well but different bars have different I.D.s so they don't work on everything. If you use red loctite on the wedge inserts that come with the Cycra kit it helps them from rotating. The BRP mounts are good but you have to drop some coin to make everything work with them. With KTM's the fork pinch bolts are on the back at a funny angle so you have to clamp the busters to the bars at the inside; with Showa/KYB the pinch bolts are square and to the front so the busters can bolt to them for added strength/rigidity.
 
I pulled the 380 subframe off....along with other stuff. One last trail a Carnegie is what got me in trouble.
Now I'm debating on new 2000 parts and updating to 08-11 style.
 

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bent70 said:
I pulled the 380 subframe off....along with other stuff. One last trail a Carnegie is what got me in trouble.
Now I'm debating on new 2000 parts and updating to 08-11 style.
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Ouch. On the plus side, your screen name makes perfect sense now.
 
elemetal said:
The BRP mounts are good but you have to drop some coin to make everything work with them. With KTM's the fork pinch bolts are on the back at a funny angle so you have to clamp the busters to the bars at the inside; with Showa/KYB the pinch bolts are square and to the front so the busters can bolt to them for added strength/rigidity.
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The BRP mounts replace the top portion of the bar clamp; has nothing to do with the fork pinch bolts. Look at the picture I posted above. I didn't have to do anything special to put them on my KTM. Just bolted them in place of the top bar clamp, then the Cycra Probends just lined right up.

But yes, you do still need to drop some coin because they are expensive.
 
Sorry Dub, I wasn't clear about it. Cycra makes the ends at the triple clamps turn down so they pick up the fork pinch bolts for the Showa/KYB flavor negating the need for the BRP strength. With a KTM you're stuck going with bar clamps near the forks or the BRP set-up due to the weird location of the pinch bolts.
 
I have 1-1/8" Pro-Taper bars and Cycra Pro-Bend handguards with triple clamp adapters and I like it quite a bit for the sturdiness, but I wonder about the rigidity. Pro-Taper's already flex way less than the classic aluminum 7/8" Renthal's and then you bolt the end of the bar to the triple clamp and reduce flex even further. I'm tempted to go the opposite way and pull everything and go back to the simple old school setup for a little bit, just for the feel.
 
That BRP setup is sweet. I have the Highway Dirt Bikes setup on some of my bikes, which can be done two ways: clamps, or their original super-burly triple clamp setup. These things are freakin' serious.
 
Measured piston-cylinder clearance
Measured ring end gap, filed/stoned rings, measured, repeat
Installed new top end
Tested for air leaks
Tested compression

Cut the ends out of new grips with a socket

It's ready to start and ride, but after one no-load warm-up, I'm going to take the shock off for a rebuild, and send the pipe away for dent repair.
 
Started it up and warmed up the the new top end on the stand
Removed the pipe and packed it up for repair
Removed the shock, removed its spring, ordered KYB rebuild kit ($$)
Removed bent bolts and bar end inserts
Replaced old grips with new Renthal full diamond soft
 
Butch, grip glue and safety wire.

I threaded the bars and installed the bar end inserts.

I shipped my pipe to piperepair.com. $11 box, $44 shipping, $60 repair, and $18 return shipping. I'm wondering if it's worth it. A new FMF Gnarly is about $210. I even drove to the UPS customer center at the ass end of sparks so I didn't have to pay an outrageous shipping charge from a UPS store.
 
I rebuilt the XR earlier this year with a Cometic head gasket. It had the smallest leak around the head gasket and would collect dust at the joint between the cylinder and the head. It drove me crazy. I called Cometic and got no support at all. They told me that I probably pulled the studs out of the case and that it could not be their head gasket. A quick internet search at their request found another XR owner with the exact same trouble. #nocometic headgasketforme. This weekend I pulled the head back off and replaced the head gasket with an OEM Honda gasket -sprayed with Permatex copper spray-a gasket. It is supposed to be the trick fix for all metal head gaskets. The head torqued right to 33 Ft/Lbs with no hint of pulling the studs. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.
 
Butch said:
Next question: what is the best way to secure grips to the bars?
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A trick shared by someone who rides a lot - quick shot of spray paint, install grip while paint is wet.
I don't know which paint color adds more hp.
 
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