What did you do to your dirty bike today?

[Lunch Box]

It never struck me that you owned a KDX and a DR350.

Mind comparing them for me? You've read a little bit about my dirt riding on the DR350... I was considering adding a lighter bike to the garage, and while I don't have money for a new orange bike, the KDX struck me as one of those great bang for the buck bikes that still competes decently enough. East coast, so I feel like the KDX would be right at home for the kind of trails we have here.

Keeping the DR around for SM duties regardless.

Eric answered this pretty well. They are vastly different bikes. The DR will make it through just about anything that the KDX can do, but the KDX will be a lot more fun. The KDX has a lot more snap on the throttle, better suspension (particularly if you do the KX front end swap) and will feel a lot lighter than the DR. Different bikes for different purposes. I will leave you with this: the DR only gets ridden if I need a plated bike and the 690 is out of commission.

 

[stangz]

Bought an aluminum folding ramp after my make shift wooden ramp slid off the tailgate and was 1/2" from dropping the bike.

 

[Kestrel]

Thanks to both of you for the feedback on the DR vs KDX. Will likely stick it out with the DR for the rest of the year, and look for a KDX next fall/winter.

 

[madsen203]

Started building my harbor freight trailer last night. They weren't kidding when they said it takes for ever to build! I'm getting it done. Will get a sheet of ply wood maybe tomorrow evening when it's done and get that bolted up.

 

[OaklandF4i]

Started building my harbor freight trailer last night. They weren't kidding when they said it takes for ever to build! I'm getting it done. Will get a sheet of ply wood maybe tomorrow evening when it's done and get that bolted up.

While assembling, open up the hubs to ensure they are properly greased. And dont skimp on the plywood, get 3/4".

 

[madsen203]

While assembling, open up the hubs to ensure they are properly greased. And dont skimp on the plywood, get 3/4".

Thanks! The hubs look like they are soaked in grease (I've read where they come absent of any). Also, 3/4 is a good idea.

The trailer looks like it should be solid. Not a bad deal for $400 with wood.

 

[OaklandF4i]

Thanks! The hubs look like they are soaked in grease (I've read where they come absent of any). Also, 3/4 is a good idea.

The trailer looks like it should be solid. Not a bad deal for $400 with wood.

Yep, they are great tools for the money. We jokingly call mine the red flexy flyer. There is some flex in the bed due to the two sets of hinges for folding, but it works flawlessly. Mine is over 15 years old and has many many miles on it. I dont have the space for a trailer if it didnt fold up. Also, strongly recommend straps the that have a retainer clip on the S hook so they dont accidentally come unhooked from a big bump temporally unloading the tension on them. I've dropped a bike that way.......

Congrats on the new to you bike and trailer.

 

[madsen203]

Yep, they are great tools for the money. We jokingly call mine the red flexy flyer. There is some flex in the bed due to the two sets of hinges for folding, but it works flawlessly. Mine is over 15 years old and has many many miles on it. I dont have the space for a trailer if it didnt fold up. Also, strongly recommend straps the that have a retainer clip on the S hook so they dont accidentally come unhooked from a big bump temporally unloading the tension on them. I've dropped a bike that way.......

Congrats on the new to you bike and trailer.

I've read about using a solid sheet of plywood to increase rigidity but I am in the same camp as you and need the folding function due to space.

Link me this strap you're talking about?

 

[OaklandF4i]

Link me this strap you're talking about?

These are similar to what I am using now. At amazon.

 

[KTMJACK]

Weld all the joints on the HFT trailer they flex way to much .
Using wood gets real slippery when wet too

 

[buellistic]

And keep your recipe
May be another class action lawsuit...

 

[madsen203]

These are similar to what I am using now. At amazon.

(image)

Oh I see what you mean by clip. I have a way of winding the strap so it doesn't make much use of the hook itself. Good thing you said something as I will double check this weak point.

Weld all the joints on the HFT trailer they flex way to much .
Using wood gets real slippery when wet too

Good idea. I used an impact wrench and it bolted everything up real tight. I've seen some selling that are welded up. I imagine mounting a board on them will solidify the frame. I plan to get a wheel chock to keep the bike more or less in place when strapped down on the road.

And keep your recipe
May be another class action lawsuit...

(Going to google this).

I will do this for future reference. Looks like it should hold up fine for my intentions. I have it hooked on a car that has a low tow rating (1k) so it surely won't be over weighted. I made sure to grease the wheel bearings up well before installing. I also noticed they have a nipple on the back of the wheel to inject grease so I will do that too.

Thanks for the info and support. Planning on taking trailer for a test spin tomorrow or the next day to get the wood (which ever day has less rain). I am thinking that I will get 1/2" because the trailer is heavy as is and I will usually only have just the one bike on it and nothing else.

 

[madsen203]

And keep your recipe
May be another class action lawsuit...

Thanks to you I just got $10 for filling out a claim form acknowledging I have bought something from them in the last 5 years. Woot!

 

[OaklandF4i]

Using wood gets real slippery when wet too

Sand mixed in the deck paint makes a decent non skid. Old sailor trick Or you can buy fancy store bought silicon beads to mix into the wood deck paint. Makes footing on wet surfaces much better. Works on my sailboat and trailer.

 

[Kestrel]

I built the HF trailer last Fall. The electrical stuff sucks - do yourself a favor and run a better ground to each of the lights. The instructions imply you should ground through the chassis, but that doesn't really work due to the paint. Works OK in some applications, but this is not one of those.

Hubs on mine came greased, too, but grease them again anyway. Buy a spare tire, and make sure you have a jack that'll lift the trailer should you actually need to change a tire.

On the square hole 'locking' bolts which secure the folding portion of the trailer... Put the nut side out to facilitate ease of removal.

Learn how to fold it - there are techniques on youtube that show you tips and tricks with a ratchet strap to lift the deck and counterweight it, making it a little easier.

Be careful on the deck thickness; too thick, and it won't fold properly. You may also need to cut the corners of the deck to ensure folding, due to bolt bolt clearance. (Depends how high your bolt head sticks out off the deck.) If you're mounting stands to the trailer, it probably won't fold up all the way anyway, but I just learn my stands attached and fold up part ways, with a ratchet strap to hold things together at the top. Much faster than taking them on and off every time.

I think I had ~$400 in mine by the time all was said and done, including title and registration here in NC. It's a pretty good value. Mine unfortunately has a seriously sticky receiver, and it doesn't cleanly push the fork down to release the hitch ball every time I try to remove it from the Volvo. Have to pry a little bit, and pull. I suspect it was somewhat crappy from the factory. Might replace it, or try to bend it back one of these days.. Currently too busy to be bothered by it that much, however.

Lastly, it can definitely help to put extensions up front for tie downs. I ran a short section of angle iron, which protrudes about 12" off the front of the trailer. Kinda like this.

If you're transporting one bike, you probably don't need them... But if you're hauling two bikes, you'll absolutely want them.

PS: If you don't reinforce the fenders, they'll literally crack the trailer frame. They're way too heavy, and the drag/turbulence will vibrate them until the trailer cracks. Find some way to secure them - google this.

 

[madsen203]

...Really great info...

I will consider removing the black fenders if I see vibration. I'm going to try to keep my speed down at 60 or below but I imagine it'll still vibrate. I wonder if I stuck some rubber between the mount and trailer if that would help eliminate the cracking potential.

I appreciate all of these tips and info that will make for happy trailer-ing.

Will keep ya'll posted!

 

[Kestrel]

I will consider removing the black fenders if I see vibration. I'm going to try to keep my speed down at 60 or below but I imagine it'll still vibrate. I wonder if I stuck some rubber between the mount and trailer if that would help eliminate the cracking potential.

I appreciate all of these tips and info that will make for happy trailer-ing.

Will keep ya'll posted!

Figured I'd brain dump everything that came to mind while it was still somewhat recent.

Unfortunately the fenders will break the frame, even with light use. They use two bolts to mount them, but they're relatively close together near the center of the fender... Torque is applied to that spot, and voila... crack.

Something as simple as steel hanger strap can be used on the far forward and rear edges of the fender to stop it from oscillating - as long as you prevent that motion, it isn't a problem.

 

[madsen203]

Figured I'd brain dump everything that came to mind while it was still somewhat recent.

Unfortunately the fenders will break the frame, even with light use. They use two bolts to mount them, but they're relatively close together near the center of the fender... Torque is applied to that spot, and voila... crack.

Something as simple as steel hanger strap can be used on the far forward and rear edges of the fender to stop it from oscillating - as long as you prevent that motion, it isn't a problem.

I'll look at removing the fenders. Not like they will do much anyway. Most M/c trailers do not have fenders (the used ones i've seen at least).

I will test the trailer out tonight or tomorrow. I like the idea of the carriage bolt facing out for easy removal. I need to get a wing nut that I can hand remove.

Suggestions for ultra cheap wheel chock?

 

[madsen203]

Just got a 60cc syringe from work and will reverse bleed the brakes and clutch tonight if I can get the hose to stick on the bleed nipple. Will also install radiator guards (may need 1/2" longer coolant hosing now too--grr!)

Getting it all set up so that when I roll out it will be primed and ready to go!

Does the zip tying the brake handle overnight trick help with firmness and air bubbles after bleeding?

 

[Cabrito]

I'll look at removing the fenders. Not like they will do much anyway. Most M/c trailers do not have fenders (the used ones i've seen at least).

I will test the trailer out tonight or tomorrow. I like the idea of the carriage bolt facing out for easy removal. I need to get a wing nut that I can hand remove.

Suggestions for ultra cheap wheel chock?

It's not legal to run a trailer without fenders, and they help keep rocks from flying up and hitting cars and possibly motorcyclists.